New, amazing, big climbing gyms have started popping up all over the place. While that is awesome news for those of you living in the areas with access to these gyms, it is less awesome for those of you too far away to use them.
The good news? Hangboard training can work just as well, if you are diligent about it and do it right.
This article is by Steve Bechtel (author of Strength: Foundational Training for Rock Climbing) from his site, climbstrong.com, that includes a “one-size-fits-all” hangboard ladder training plan.
“The general gist is that you do several sets of exercise at the same load (weight), but vary the volume with each set. By laddering up 1 rep, 2 reps, 3 reps, and then repeating, the athlete is forcing more volume into a workout and allowing for more adaptation potential.” -Steve Bechtel
This is a sample of what one day of the first week of this hangboard ladder training program looks like for Protocol 1:
“Protocol 1:
2-3 sessions per week. The big key is to start on holds that feel easy, that you can hold comfortably for 9 seconds. The overload to the system is not so much muscular as it is a strain on the connective tissue of the hands and fingers. This takes a long time to develop. Several compelling studies (yes, real university studies!) show that submaximal work can create big jumps in isometric strength, so take it easy at first. You’ll know when you’re strong enough to progress.
Select 3-4 hold types or positions. You’ll stick with these throughout the 8 week phase, so 3-4 positions, all held straight-arm with “active” shoulders.
Week 1: 3 straight ladders 3-6-9 sec. on a 45 second clock.
this means:
position 1: 3 sec, rest, 6 sec, rest, 9 sec, rest.
position 2: 3 sec, rest, 6 sec, rest, 9 sec, rest.
position 3: 3 sec, rest, 6 sec, rest, 9 sec, rest.” –climbstrong.com
Check out the article in full to see the rest of the workouts for week one as well as the 7 weeks following it, plus the workouts of protocol 2…..
CLICK HERE: ClimbStrong: Hangboard Ladder Training
(photo courtesy of climbstrong.com)
Steve Bechtel is the author of Strength: Foundational Training for Rock Climbers.
To hear more from Steve Bechtel listen to our podcast interview with him here.
