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TrainingBeta Blog2024-08-06T13:47:12-06:00

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How to Climb Harder Than The Other Newbs: Training Wheels

This article was written by Kris Hampton and is a repost from his awesome, informative site, powercompanyclimbing.com. Kris is a great climber, friend and author of our 8-Week Endurance Training Program (which is a great program to check out if your endurance needs some improving….). Here, Kris talks about how to approach training for climbing [...]

April 12th, 2015|

Apply the 80-20 Rule To Your Climbing

....to get the most gains with the least effort. "Vilfredo Pareto, a late 19th Century economist, noticed that 80% of the land in Italy was owned by only 20% of the population. This ratio, now known as Pareto’s Principle (or simply the 80-20 Rule), can be (over) simplified by saying [...]

April 10th, 2015|

Weight Management for Climbers

It's Neely here, and since I'm a nutritionist, of course weight management is going to be an interesting topic to me. And since you're a climber, it's also probably an interesting topic to you 😉 Weight does have some bearing on how well we climb, whether we like it or [...]

April 8th, 2015|

Maximize Your Climbing Endurance With These Workouts

Many climbers either focus mainly on bouldering or focus mostly on rope climbing; it's the nature of our sport. If that's the case, you probably don't feel balanced in power and endurance. This article from climbing.com addresses this lack of balance...  "Because most climbers don’t simultaneously focus on both sport [...]

April 7th, 2015|

Mike Doyle’s Strength Program

Last week I published a podcast interview with Mike Doyle, who recently sent his long-term project, Necessary Evil (5.14c) in the Virgin River Gorge, despite having a very full load at work and a pretty healthy social life. People were impressed by a couple things about Mike Doyle: 1. That [...]

April 6th, 2015|

One Thing Out of Your Comfort Zone: Lead Climbing Confidence

If you've ever taken a bad fall while you're lead climbing it can be hard to regain your confidence in leading. This article by Dave MacLeod, from his site onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com, addresses 6 common pitfalls people fall into when they are trying to get their lead climbing confidence back. He lists [...]

April 5th, 2015|

Steve Maisch: Climbing Workouts of the Day

"A climbing workout of the day is a climbing specific conditioning workout that should take less than 20 minutes and is not so taxing that you can't do it at the end of a workout. If you're not into structuring a climbing workout for the day then you can use [...]

April 4th, 2015|

EpicTV Video: Training With Adam Ondra Part 2

"Failure is a reason to be even more motivated and to try even harder during those hard periods and to train even harder and to give it even more effort." -Adam Ondra This EpicTV Video is Part 2 of Training With Adam Ondra (to see Part 1, click here). It [...]

April 3rd, 2015|

EpicTV Video: Training with Adam Ondra Part 1

Take a look at this EpicTV video of what Adam Ondra refers to as "his hectic training period"- he climbs 6 or 7 days a week! And he manages to be a full-time student as well. For his "rest physically" he sits at school, which also gives him a nice mental [...]

March 31st, 2015|

Emerging Concepts in Injury Prevention: Carpal Tunnel Syndrome

If you've ever felt weakness in your hand and numbness in your thumb, index, and middle finger after a long climbing session, listen up! It's possible you may be suffering from Carpal Tunnel Syndrome. You've probably heard of Carpal Tunnel Syndrome as it's something that can be common in people who [...]

March 29th, 2015|
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