Maximize Your Climbing Endurance With These Workouts
Many climbers either focus mainly on bouldering or focus mostly on rope climbing; it's the nature of our sport. If that's the case, you probably don't feel balanced in power and endurance. This article from climbing.com addresses this lack of balance... "Because most climbers don’t simultaneously focus on both sport [...]
Mike Doyle’s Strength Program
Last week I published a podcast interview with Mike Doyle, who recently sent his long-term project, Necessary Evil (5.14c) in the Virgin River Gorge, despite having a very full load at work and a pretty healthy social life. People were impressed by a couple things about Mike Doyle: 1. That [...]
One Thing Out of Your Comfort Zone: Lead Climbing Confidence
If you've ever taken a bad fall while you're lead climbing it can be hard to regain your confidence in leading. This article by Dave MacLeod, from his site onlineclimbingcoach.blogspot.com, addresses 6 common pitfalls people fall into when they are trying to get their lead climbing confidence back. He lists [...]
Steve Maisch: Climbing Workouts of the Day
"A climbing workout of the day is a climbing specific conditioning workout that should take less than 20 minutes and is not so taxing that you can't do it at the end of a workout. If you're not into structuring a climbing workout for the day then you can use [...]
EpicTV Video: Training With Adam Ondra Part 2
"Failure is a reason to be even more motivated and to try even harder during those hard periods and to train even harder and to give it even more effort." -Adam Ondra This EpicTV Video is Part 2 of Training With Adam Ondra (to see Part 1, click here). It [...]
EpicTV Video: Training with Adam Ondra Part 1
Take a look at this EpicTV video of what Adam Ondra refers to as "his hectic training period"- he climbs 6 or 7 days a week! And he manages to be a full-time student as well. For his "rest physically" he sits at school, which also gives him a nice mental [...]
Emerging Concepts in Injury Prevention: Carpal Tunnel Syndrome
If you've ever felt weakness in your hand and numbness in your thumb, index, and middle finger after a long climbing session, listen up! It's possible you may be suffering from Carpal Tunnel Syndrome. You've probably heard of Carpal Tunnel Syndrome as it's something that can be common in people who [...]
Start Training for Climbing Safely: Five Essential Tips
Figuring out how to train for climbing versus just going climbing can seem tricky, yeah? It's hard to know where to start.... "Whether you’ve been climbing for three months or three decades, if you’ve never participated in a structured climbing training program before – meaning that all you’ve done to [...]
Freebie Power Endurance Training Workout
Power endurance is your ability to keep doing a lot of fairly hard moves in a row, without much in the way of rests. No moves are particularly hard or easy, they're just on you and as the pump builds, it gets harder to keep doing them. You can do every [...]
Learn This: The Over-Gripping Myth
"As you move ever higher above your last piece and further outside your comfort zone, you grip the rock for dear life, even though you know the route is well within your ability. Yet here you are, only halfway up and too pumped to continue—everything feels way harder than it [...]