Blog Posts about Injuries
The Importance of Flexibility for Climbing
Do you have trouble utilizing extremely high feet? How about difficult or powerful heel hooks? Here's an article form Ned Feehally of Beastmaker.co.uk on the importance of flexibility for climbing that may help. In his article, Ned Feehally argues against the [...]
Climber Problems: The A2 Pulley Strain
***Before we get started today, we need your help! We're writing an article about marijuana's effects on climbing performance and how people feel about it at climbing areas in general. Could you please take this 9-question multiple choice survey about marijuana [...]
Dynamic Climbing Warm-Up
This is a video from Dr. Jared Vagy (of theclimbingdoctor.com) about a new climbing specific warm-up that takes less than 10 minutes! Starring in this video is Jonathan Siegrist (J-Star), demonstrating this new dynamic climbing warm-up. "Dynamic stretching is when [...]
Training: Efficient Rest Days
"As much as our social media streams may suggest otherwise, most climbers are real people with real jobs, spending a fair share of time deskbound. But fear not, weekend warriors, all that time in front of a computer screen doesn’t [...]
Climbing Injuries Solved- Book Kickstarter
Dr. Lisa Erikson is a sports chiropractor specializing in overuse injuries of athletes, including climbers. She has written an incredible book, Climbing Injuries Solved that can help you learn to heal yourself. She currently has a Kickstarter going to help fund [...]
Belayer’s Neck: Injury Prevention
Have you ever finished a long day of climbing (and a long day of belaying) with a sore neck? Like a dull-ache-sort-of-feeling in your neck that maybe lingers for a few days? This could be belayer's neck. "Poor belaying postures repeated [...]
Alex Johnson: Staying Healthy
Alex Johnson climbs a lot. And she's really good at it. Have you ever asked yourself how the Pros, such as Alex Johnson, are able to climb so often and stay injury free? Alex recently posted an article on her [...]
Secret Skin-Care Tips From Rock Climbing Pros
Every climber can agree that climbing with tape on your fingertips is a bummer. It can slip, roll, snag the rock weird, and usually prevents you from being able to grab a hold exactly how you want to. Part of [...]
How To Warm Up for A Route Session
This post was written by Seth Lytton, co-runner of TrainingBeta, training fanatic, and a pretty strong rock climber. He thinks warming up is important and I tend to agree with him, so here's how to do it properly. Also, this [...]
Mike Doyle’s Strength Program
Last week I published a podcast interview with Mike Doyle, who recently sent his long-term project, Necessary Evil (5.14c) in the Virgin River Gorge, despite having a very full load at work and a pretty healthy social life. People were [...]