By Published On: September 10th, 2017Categories: Injury prevention2 Comments on Wrist Pain – Conquer the Crux

Most climbing injuries are the result of overuse.  While fingers, shoulders, and elbows are common culprits, our wrist are also susceptible.  Luckily, wrist pain, as with all overuse injuries, is completely avoidable.

To help you understand what causes wrist pain and resolve any ongoing wrist injuries, here’s an article by Cristina Lizarazo of Conquer the Crux.

In her article, Lizarazo discusses the anatomy of the wrist to give you a better idea of exactly how climbing can lead to wrist pain.

“The point to understand is that the movements in climbing can be very repetitive, and this is exacerbated even more so when working a project. Whether it’s compression, tension, twisting, or impact, if the movement is done repetitively and without proper support from the surrounding muscles, tendons and ligaments, well that sounds like an overuse injury just waiting to happen.” – Cristina Lizarazo

Wrist Pain Solutions

Lizarazo doesn’t just discuss the anatomy of the wrist and how climbing can cause wrist overuse injuries.  She also outlines both mobility/flexibility stretches and strength/stability exercises for the wrist.  These stretches and exercises can be used both to resolve any existing wrist pain and to prevent it all together.  Here they are:

  • Mobility/Flexibility:
    • Wrist extension
    • Wrist flexion
    • Wrist rotations
  • Strength/Stability:
    • Ball squeeze with ABC’s
    • Wrist hammer curls
    • Finger curls
    • Eccentric Wrist Extension
    • Downward dog with variations
    • Plank with variations

All of these stretches and exercises are demonstrated with pictures to make them easy to follow.  Lizarazo also includes recommendations on the number of reps and sets.  Click through below for the full article!

Full Article: Wrist Pain – Conquer the Crux

climbing training programs

(photo courtesy of conquerthecrux.com)

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2 Comments

  1. Anonymous June 1, 2023 at 5:56 am - Reply

    I am VERY interested in the full article because my wrist has hurt for 3 weeks now, but when I click on the click I get “oops, that page cannot be found”. I appreciate all that you share with our community, Neely, and it would be awesome if you could email me the full article if you still have access to it. KristinLeeHicks@gmail.com

    • Neely Quinn August 9, 2023 at 9:06 pm - Reply

      Sorry, but that website took that article down and I can’t find it anywhere on the site!

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