Can you crank 1-5-9 on the campus board, but start shaking in your boots at the sight of a slab? What about on your project? Do you hike through the steep, overhanging terrain only to fall on the 5.10 slabby headwall? If either of these situation describes you then you need to work on getting better balance.
To help, here’s an article from Climbing Magazine by Craig DeMartino in which he outlines five tips for finding better balance on climbs of all angles and styles.
“Thirteen years ago, I lost part of my right leg after a 100-foot groundfall at Lumpy Ridge, Colorado. Returning to climbing was a no-brainer for me; it’s my life. But this new state of normal had a steep learning curve. Most might see having one leg as a negative, but I realized that I could still climb hard if I relearned how to use my body, and the most important factor was balance. Having one leg created new balance points, and understanding them was crucial for progressing to the point where I am able to climb routes now that I wasn’t able to climb pre-accident.” – Craig DeMartino
Craig is an amazing climber who has overcome a lot to be able to climb harder than he did before his accident. While many climbers associate balance only with slabs or more technical, vertical climbs, Craig’s experience coming back from his accident underscores how essential balance is for climbing across the board regardless of the angle and style.
Ultimately, some of Craig’s tips may seem a little weird and goofy, but if you struggle with balance do yourself a favor, try them out, and learn from all of Craig’s hard work and experience.
Craig DeMartino’s Tips for Better Balance:
- Find your center of balance
- Keep it weird
- Climb one-legged
- Use your whole body
- Avoid staying vertical
All of these tips are explained in greater detail in the full article. The tips themselves range from suggestions about how to change your climbing style and movement patterns to drills that will help improve your ability to find balance points on climbs all of different angles and styles. Check them out by clicking through below!
Full Article: Tips for Better Balance
(photo courtesy of climbing.com)
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