Power can be a hard thing to train for climbers of any gender. However, while there are plenty of super powerful female climbers out there, women typically find building power more difficult than males.
To help any women (or anyone for that matter) struggling to build power, here’s an article from Rock and Ice by champion boulderer and the first female to ever climb V13 Angie Payne.
“When I began climbing, my style could aptly be called The Sloth. I climbed with slow precision and despised the out-of-control feeling of dynamic, powerful movement. I avoided jumping and, typical of many women, used technique to maneuver around powerful moves.”
“This worked well enough—until competition boulder problems and the field of competitors became more dynamic and powerful. My climbing style got me to the top of the podium in national competitions in the early 2000s, but by 2011, times had changed. A particularly powerful problem in the finals of the bouldering Nationals that year felt untouchable to me, while many of the other finalists cruised it.”
“Thus began my pursuit of power. I am still not a powerhouse, but I have made noticeable gains using the following tips.” – Angie Payne
Women’s Guide to Building Power
One would assume that anyone capable of climbing V13 doesn’t struggle with building power. However, as Angie notes above, you can go a long way in climbing without a powerful dynamic style. Eventually, though, you are going to run into situations where strength alone isn’t going to cut it.
In her article, Angie gives you some sample exercise that will help you develop power. However, what she really focuses on are the basic principles of building power and the mental shifts that were important for her to make in her ongoing efforts to become more powerful. This kind of advice from one of the top female boulders out there is extremely valuable and shouldn’t be missed.
Take a proactive approach and put some time into building power. Even if it isn’t crucial for your next project, it will make you a more well rounded climber in the long run.
Full Article: Rock and Ice – Women’s Guide to Building Power
(photo courtesy of rockandice.com)
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