Ready to work on your low-intensity endurance skills to become an even better climber?
This is Part 2 of Rock and Ice’s (rockandice.com) 7 part series of “Building a Better Climber”.
Part 2 is a sport specific endurance phase with the focus on high-volume, low-intensity training. The priority in this phase is mileage rather than projecting.
“For best results, add a personalized touch by adapting the plan to your goals or weaknesses; for example, by focusing more on specific types of holds or angles, but the overall effect will still be powerful even if you do exactly what’s set out here.” -Neil Gresham
This article sets up a plan with the number of days per week they recommend you spend training 4 different categories: low-intensity endurance, bouldering volume, conditioning and flexibility, and antagonists and core, based on your climbing ability.
Then each category is broken down into specific workouts including options for training on a lead wall or bouldering wall.
For example, in the low-intensity category:
“a) Routes / Option 1
Warm-up first. Select 3 different routes of the same grade that you can climb consecutively, “3 in a row.” See guidelines for optimum wall angle. In Part 1 you worked on conditioning to build a strong base. Now, learn how to spend 6-weeks training climbing-specific endurance to become a better climber…. (photo courtesy of rockandice.com)
Note that the grade will be at least 2 or 3 below your onsight grade for beginner/intermediates and 4 below onsight grade for advanced/elite.
Lower off and make the transition to the next route as quickly (and safely) as possible.
Climbing 3 routes in a row equals one set. Do 5 sets with rests equal to climbing time.
Aim to make subsequent sessions slightly harder by bumping up the grade of the three routes by one letter.“CLICK HERE: Building a Better Climber: Part 2
