The Power Endurance Training program by Kris Peters contains route climbing and bouldering (as well as weights, campusing, and body weight exercises). There are a lot of people around the country who don’t have access to a good route-climbing gym or a treadwall, and that leaves them at a disadvantage when trying to follow the Power Endurance program.

Don’t worry – there’s hope! You can definitely work around it. This is actually exactly why we’re creating the Bouldering Training program and the Route Training Program (TBA) right now. We want everyone to be able to train hard with a simply laid-out plan, so we’re getting there! In the meantime, though, here are a couple easy workarounds.

How To Do The Power Endurance Program Without Routes

Ok, so if you want to do the 6-Week Power Endurance Program and you only have boulder problems to train on, here’s what you do.

Option 1

1. For every route you’re told to do in the PE program, figure that a typical gym route is 20-30 moves, so if you can do that many moves in a row on the bouldering wall, going up or down, you’ll replicate the workout. For instance, if you’re told to do 2 sport routes in a row with no rest, do between 40-60 moves in a row on boulders up climbing and down climbing, on taped routes or not.

OR

Option 2

2. The other less complicated thing you could do is just remove the route climbing workouts from the program and do the bouldering workouts instead. Just go through the program and find the bouldering workouts and then substitute them for the route workouts whenever they come up. There are a handful of bouldering workouts, so pick them out and just cycle through them as substitutes.

Sorry it’s not simpler, but we will have a solution very soon to this problem! If you have no idea what I’m talking about and you want to find out more about this Power Endurance Program, you can do that here.

Happy training!

TrainingBeta is a site dedicated to training for rock climbing. We provide resources and information about training for routes, bouldering, finger strength, mental training, nutrition for climbers, and everything in between. We offer climbing training programs, a blog, interviews on the TrainingBeta Podcast, personal training for climbing, and nutrition for climbers.


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