TBP 300: Wrist Injury Rehab with Dr. Tyler Nelson
I asked Dr. Tyler Nelson to come back on the show to talk about wrist injuries and how to rehab them. Wrist injuries are the fourth most common injury (after fingers, elbows, and shoulders) that Tyler helps climbers with in his practice at Camp4HumanPerformance.com.
Episode Details
- some common wrist injuries
- how they happen
- what aggravates them in climbing
- what you should do about them
- specific exercises to heal and strengthen them
- how to continue climbing during your injury (when appropriate)
- how to get a good diagnosis from a professional
- my own experience with a full TFCC tear and my surgery for that
- my husband’s wrist surgery for ulnar impaction syndrome
About Tyler Nelson
Dr. Tyler Nelson owns and operates Camp 4 Human Performance, a sports medicine and strength & conditioning clinic out of Salt Lake City. Tyler has a master’s degree in sports science and rehabilitation and is a certified strength & conditioning specialist. He works with climbers around the world to help them understand and rehabilitate their climbing injuries.
You can find Tyler online and at his clinic in Salt Lake City, Utah at Camp 4 Human Performance. And you can check out his podcast Climbing Science for patrons of his Patreon here.
Episode Links
- Wrist Loading Instagram Post
- TFCC Instagram Post
- Wrist Pain Rehab Online Course
- Camp 4 website: camp4humanperformance.com
- Patreon and Podcast: patreon.com/c/C4HP_/home
- Take an online class with Tyler: camp4humanperformance.com/store
- Do a consultation with Tyler for coaching or an injury
- Instagram: @c4hp
Other Episodes with Tyler
- TBP 286 :: Correlation Between Finger Strength-to-Weight Ratio and Climbing Performance
- TBP 257 :: Finger Endurance Training Advancements with Dr. Tyler Nelson
- TBP 239 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Training Finger Endurance
- TBP 225 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Unlevel Grips for Finger Injuries and Training
- TBP 212: Dr. Tyler Nelson’s New Insights on the Limits of Fingerboard Training
- TBP 202: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Finger Injuries in Youth Climbers
- TBP 168: New Insights on Finger Training
- TBP 162: Dr. Tyler Nelson on Endurance Training for Fingers
- TBP 155: Dr. Tyler Nelson on High Volume Power Training
- TBP 149: The Different Roles of Stretching for Climbing
- TBP 133: The Simplest Finger Training Protocol with Dr. Tyler Nelson
- TBP 084: Injury Rehab and Blood Flow Restriction Training
- TBP 098: Isometric Movements to Prime and Test Your Body
- TBP 108: Bood Flow Restriction for Injury Healing and Performance
- TBP 118: Latest Technology for Finger Training and Performance Testing
- TBP 128: Surprising Methods for Healing Tendon Injuries
- TBP 186 :: Dr. Tyler Nelson’s New Injury Prevention and Warm-Up Protocol
