Project Description

Date: January 17th, 2019

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About Tyler Nelson

Tyler Nelson has a lot of qualifications, so I’m going to let his website sum those up for you:

Tyler is a second generation chiropractor whose father was a leader in chiropractic sports medicine for many years. In graduate school he did a dual doctorate and masters degree program in exercise science with an emphasis on tendon loading. He completed his masters degree at BYU and was a physician for the athletics department for 4 years out of school. He currently is the owner of Camp4 Human Performance where he treats clients through his license as a chiropractic physician. He also teaches anatomy and physiology at a local college in Utah and is an instructor for the Performance Climbing Coach seminar series and a certified instructor for gobstrong. When he’s not working he’s climbing or hiking outside with his family.  

You can find Tyler in Salt Lake City at his clinic, Camp 4 Human Performance, where he tests athletes, creates programs, and treats all kinds of athletes for injuries.

I met Tyler at Steve Bechtel’s Climbing Training Seminar in Lander in May of 2017, where we were both instructors. Since then I’ve done 3 more seminars with him and 3 other podcast episodes (here and here and here). He is well-spoken and a wealth of knowledge about how the human body responds to climbing and training.

In my 2nd interview with Tyler, he explained how he uses a crane scale to test people’s power output and maximum strength with all kinds of exercises. It’s all about isometric training and testing (pulling on an inanimate object to either gain strength or test your max strength). He wrote 2 articles for us all about that topic:

This time on the podcast, we’re focusing on the new technology he’s helped to create and the data you can glean from it for yourself or your athletes. It’s a Custom Strain Gauge called the Exsurgo gStrength500 that includes an app so you can see how strong you are over a period of time. To give you an example, during our PCC events Tyler will test all the athletes with this strain gauage using a fingerboard setup like the one shown above with Alex Puccio. He asks the athletes to pull as hard as they can for 10 seconds or 30 seconds. With the device and the app, you can see how hard they’re pulling and how long they can maintain that force.

The results from this kind of testing can tell you if you’re lacking anaerobic power, aerobic output, or if you just need to be stronger all around. It can also tell you if you’re one of the people who can try really hard, which is good information in itself.

In this interview, Tyler explains everything I’ve described above in detail and talks about the differences between route climbers and boulderers, and how the data can inform training programs for specific athletes. It’s super nerdy and very useful, and if you’re into that kind of stuff this episode is definitely for you.

DISCOUNT CODE: Also, Tyler asked the company to give you guys a discount of $90 off the product and they obliged. The code is “c4hp” at checkout, but please contact Tyler at camp4performance@gmail.com to go through him to purchase it.

Tyler Nelson Interview Details

  • Background on isometric testing like this
  • Why testing your strength to weight ratio is helpful
  • When and why we should use this kind of device
  • The new device he helped design
  • Why this is better than normal testing and training
  • The data he’s gotten from his boulderers vs route climbers
  • How it’s changed Tyler’s training on himself and his athletes

Sample Data Sets

On the boulderer and the route climber’s data, compare their “Strength:weight” numbers (3rd item from top on left) and their Max Hang weight at the bottom. You can see that the boulderer’s strength to weight and max hang are much higher than the route climber’s. However, note that the route climber stays at a higher percentage of their max for longer during the 10 second test.

Graph of V14 bouldering athlete on 10 second max pull:

 

Graph of 5.14 sport climber on 10 second max pull:

 

Aerobic power graphing metric on trad climber:

This graph is good at representing how a coach would use the strain gauge to prescribe number of reps for an athlete using a repeater program for aerobic power. In this case the athlete drops below 85% after four reps. Therefore if we were to prescribe a repeater protocol for him we would cut it off at four reps. His strength to weightt ratio also indicates that there would be no additional load added to his body because his force does not supersede it often enough.

 

Climbing Training Seminar with Tyler Nelson, Bechtel, Me, etc..

If you’re interested in being a student at one of Steve Bechtel’s upcoming Performance Climbing Coach seminars, there’s one scheduled for May 18-20th in Fort Collins, CO and you can find more info on it here.

–>> GET MORE INFO 

Tyler Nelson Links

Training Programs for You

Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta. Something for everyone…

climbing training programs

Please Review The Podcast on iTunes

Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.

Photo

Tyler Nelson photo of Alex Puccio using the ExSurgo gStrength500 in Tyler’s clinic.

Transcript

Coming soon

TrainingBeta is a site dedicated to training for rock climbing. We provide resources and information about training for routes, bouldering, finger strength, mental training, nutrition for climbers, and everything in between. We offer climbing training programs, a blog, interviews on the TrainingBeta Podcast, personal training for climbing, and nutrition for climbers.


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