Date: February 5th, 2019
About Brianna Greene
Brianna Greene is a very good friend of mine who I regularly climb with, so it was an easy choice to have her as a guest on the show after I watched her send her first 5.12a last fall. She’s a bubbly, intelligent, methodical person, and I think that her journey from being a boulderer to a 5.12a sport climber is inspirational on a lot of levels. Bri wrote an article for TrainingBeta about her mental and physical training, and this interview is a complement to that.
Brianna is a 33-year-old software engineer who lives in Boulder, Colorado. She’s been climbing for over a decade, but she spent most of her years bouldering, until a few years ago when she decided she wanted to switch things up. She faced many challenges, including the fact that she suffered a bad ankle injury from a bad catch while sport climbing. She’s also 4’11” with negative ape index, so her confidence in her ability to do longer moves needed some work.
Over the past year, she methodically worked on her weaknesses: fear of falling, fear of being above her bolt, confidence, and physical strength to compensate for her height. All of that culminated in her sending her first 5.12a, The Dope Shinto, in Tensleep, Wyoming. This interview goes into detail about how she gradually worked her weaknesses, as well as the valuable lessons she learned about the redpointing process.
You can follow Bri on Instagram @Briby for more of her story.
Brianna Greene Interview Details
- How her ankle injury affected her lead head
- How she got over that fear
- How she compensates for being 4’11”
- What was holding her back from sending a 12a
- The redpointing tricks she learned in order to send
- The physical training she did to climb 5.12a
Brianna Greene Links
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- Personal Training Online: www.trainingbeta.com/matt
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The author during a trip to Columbia | photo: Juan Diego Reyes