When it comes to the physical side of training for climbing, the most important thing to focus on is training finger strength.  Not only is it central to improving performance, but it also takes the longest to develop so consistently working on it is the best approach.

However, for newer climbers or climbers who have never done any structured training before, figuring out an appropriate beginner hangboard workout can be difficult.  Not only are there lots of different protocols out there, but you also need to find the right intensity so that you are stressing your fingers without going to far and risking injury.

Luckily, TrainingBeta offers Finger Strength Training Programs that take all the guess workout out of hangboarding.  There’s a beginner, an intermediate, and an advanced program so whether you are new to hangboarding or have been at it for years there’s a program that will be at the right intensity for you.

Today, though, we thought we’d share the second workout from week 1 of the beginner program to give you a taste of the program and also show any beginners out there just how effective even a small amount of fingerboarding can be.

Give this beginner hangboard workout a shot and if you like what you see be sure to check out either the beginner, intermediate, or advanced Finger Strength Training Programs for yourself!

Finger Strength: Free Beginner Hangboard Workout

Finger Strength Training Programs

If you like what you saw above and are ready to be more structured with your finger strength training, be sure to check out the full programs.  Here are the basics:

“All of the programs were created to specifically train finger strength for climbing, and each 5-week program is catered to a different level of climber. They are in ebook format (PDF), so you can follow them on any device or print them out. There are 2 finger workouts per week in the beginner and intermediate programs, and 3 finger workouts per week in the advanced program, and each workout is about 2 hours long.

You will be doing a combination of “repeaters” and max hangs, all while incrementally increasing the weight you’re hanging with. There are also 3 intense supplemental core workouts included in each program to cycle through during the 5 weeks. Each program includes a logbook and a variety of other strength training and injury prevention exercises.”

Check out the full programs for yourself by clicking through below!

However, if this program doesn’t sound like the right fit for you, we offer a variety of programs that train everything from endurance to finger strength.  Check them all out here: Climbing Training Programs.

Full Programs: Finger Strength Training Programs

climbing training programs

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TrainingBeta is a site dedicated to training for rock climbing. We provide resources and information about training for routes, bouldering, finger strength, mental training, nutrition for climbers, and everything in between. We offer climbing training programs, climbing training classes, nutrition classes, regular blog posts, interviews on The TrainingBeta Podcast, personal coaching for climbing, and nutrition for climbers.

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