Redpointing sport routes at or near your limit is a difficult process that requires good tactics and mental fortitude as much as it does strong fingers and high levels of endurance. Many climbers fail to redpoint routes that are actually within their ability not because they aren’t strong enough or fit enough, but because their approach and tactics actually constitute self-sabotage.
To help you master the redpoint process, here’s an article by Andrew Bisharat of Evening Sends in which he discusses the entire process of redpointing from the first trip up a route to the eventual send in detail.
“Projecting makes you a better a climber. It really does. Not only that, but the process of working a route can reveal certain strengths and weaknesses that you don’t see elsewhere. Eventually, this becomes the point of the rather pointless exercise called sport climbing. Stick with it, even when it sucks, and take comfort in knowing that climbing becomes difficult for everyone at some level. That’s what we’re here for. There’s nothing to be learned from the easy path. The point is finding your limit and then pushing it. If working a route feels like work, that’s because it is. But nobody ever died from a little hard work, so let’s get into the tactics that will help you combat the colossal forces impending the long journey to a successful redpoint.” – Andrew Bisharat
The tactics Andrew covers in detail are:
- The right temperament
- Using your time on the route to always learn something new
- Breaking the route down
- Early attempts
- Skipping or clipping draws
- What to do when you are in direct
- Making links
- “Working” the rests
- Highs and lows
- The one hang
- Warming up for the redpoint
- Some general tips
This is a really in depth article with a lot of good information. Whether you are new to the redpoint process or are a seasoned projector, give this article a read. Learning some of these tips or simply reminding yourself of them may just make the difference and have you clipping the chains instead of falling in the same spot for another season on your project.
Click Here: Evening Sends – Tips for Redpointing
(photo byKeith Ladzinski; courtesy of eveningsends.com)
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