As I’ve sure you’ve seen by now, Paige Claassen recently sent Necessary Evil 5.14c. When Chris Sharma first established Necessary Evil in 1997, it was the hardest route in the country. In the 21 years since the first ascent, Necessary Evil has only seen 16 other ascents and didn’t see a female ascent until Michaela Kiersch sent just 24 hours before Paige.
While both Paige and Michaela’s ascents are news worth in their own right, Paige’s send stands out because of the unique approach she took to training for Necessary Evil. Andrew Bisharat of Evening Sends recently published an article in which Paige described her training program that featured no more than one hour of training per day. Many of us live busy, hectic lives. Paige’s success shows us that with the proper motivation and approach you can progress your climbing even with limited time.
“Prior to the start of the VRG season, Paige found herself in a unique predicament for a professional climber: she found herself working a grueling 14-hour-per-day, 6-day-per-week job on her husband’s grape farm in South Africa. Crunched for time, yet unwilling to give up her dream of sending Necessary Evil, Paige, with the help of her training sensei Justen Sjong, devised a routine that allowed her to get fit and strong with just one hour per day.” – Andrew Bisharat
How Paige Claassen Sent Her Proj With Only 1 Hour Per Day
In the article, Paige gives a general outline of what her one hour of training per day looked like. Her program was written for her by climbing coach Justen Sjong and consisted of training using the following equipment:
- Moon Board
- Gymnastic rings
- Beastmaker Hangboard
While it’s nice to have the details of Paige’s training, the exact exercises Paige used aren’t what is really significant. Instead, it is Paige’s approach. She started with a goal (sending Necessary Evil), looked at what was holding her back, and trained to target those weaknesses.
“The moral of the story isn’t that you only need to train one hour a day in order to climb at your limit. What I did learn, however, is that with the right mindset and the application of a very specific training routine targeted at obvious weaknesses, limited time doesn’t have to be the limiting factor.” Paige Claassen
As Paige said above, the moral isn’t that we all only need to train one hour a day. Instead, it’s that if we can effectively target our weaknesses we can still improve our climbing despite the time constraints of our everyday lives.
Click through below to read the full article for yourself. Prepare to be motivated!
(photo by Chris Bailey Speed; courtesy of eveningsends.com)
Other Articles You Might Like:
- Transcript Highlight: Paige Claassen on Learning to Try Hard
- TBP 087 :: Paige Claassen Spells Out How To Successfully Project A Route
- Paige Claassen- Running as Cross-Training
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