Last week we posted and article written by Dana Bleiberg for Climb On, Sister! in which she outlined some of the exercises she does to help her cope with being a shorter climber. Well luckily for any shorter climbers out there, Dana wrote a second article that outlines some of the specific techniques shorter climbers can work on to improve their climbing and work around their height.
In her article, Dana describes how through working with a movement coach she changed her movement partners from a primary static “turned in” climbing style to a more dynamic “turned out” style.
“The reason for turn out is that it allows for dynamic movement. Dynamic movement is using momentum to help propel your body to the next hold. This is a technique that took me quite a while to get used to. I spent most of my climbing career as a very static climber. I had amazing lock off strength and would lock off everything and climb incredibly slow. Sometimes, a low lock off still wasn’t enough reach and even if it was, locking off took way too much energy. So, I learned to jump and use power and force (dynamic movement) to reach the next hold. There are two main types of dynamic movement deadpoints and dynos.” – Dana Bleiberg
Dana then describes how she initially learned to move dynamically by incorporating both deadpoints and dynos into her climbing movement patterns. While Dana admits that this turned out style does not work in all circumstances, it clearly has made a big difference in her climbing as she believes she now climbs turned out around 90% of the time.
Click through bellow to read the whole article. Its pretty inspiring stuff to hear about experienced climbers learning whole new ways to climb and progress.
Click Here: Climbing Technique for Shorter Climbers
(photo courtesy of climbonsister.blogspot.com)
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