Transcript Highlight: Bill Ramsey on Age and Climbing

Bill Ramsey is a legendary climber having established 5.14 routes and climbed 5.14b at the age of 54.  If you know Bill, you also know how manically devoted he is to his training.  Bill has developed his own training philosophy [...]

2017-09-18T06:35:29-06:00August 5th, 2017|Categories: Uncategorized|

Beast Fingers Strength-to-Weight Ratio Study

Our friends at Beast Fingers Climbing are conducting research and need your help!  Essentially, Beast Fingers, makers of the Grippul, are studying strength-to-weight ratio in climbers and they need more participants. When you compare training for climbing to training for [...]

2017-09-18T06:36:01-06:00June 30th, 2017|Categories: Uncategorized|

Steve Bechtel: Power vs Strength

In his most recent TrainingBeta Podcast, climbing trainer and coach Steve Bechtel talks extensively about how to design your own training program.  Ultimately, a lot of his and Neely's discussion revolves around how using a nonlinear periodization model is a great [...]

2017-09-18T06:36:08-06:00June 23rd, 2017|Categories: Uncategorized|

Finger Strength: Free Beginner Hangboard Workout

When it comes to the physical side of training for climbing, the most important thing to focus on is training finger strength.  Not only is it central to improving performance, but it also takes the longest to develop so consistently working [...]

2017-09-18T06:36:12-06:00June 19th, 2017|Categories: Uncategorized|

FrictionLabs: Getting Started on the Moon Board

Our friends at FrictionLabs recently published an article outlining what the Moon Board is and how to use it properly.  With the Moon Board, a standardized bouldering training wall created by legendary British climber Ben Moon,  rapidly increasing in popularity [...]

2017-09-18T06:36:33-06:00May 27th, 2017|Categories: Uncategorized|

Top 5 TrainingBeta Podcasts

Neely has been putting out TrainingBeta Podcasts now for years and they are full of all kinds of amazing training information from some of the top climbers and trainers out there.  She is even up to 78 episodes and counting! [...]

2017-09-18T06:36:40-06:00May 19th, 2017|Categories: Uncategorized|
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