Neely has been putting out TrainingBeta Podcasts now for years and they are full of all kinds of amazing training information from some of the top climbers and trainers out there. She is even up to 78 episodes and counting!
The only problem with having 78 episodes is that that’s over 78 hours of detailed information to listen to. Consider this post a greatest hits album. This way if you are new to the podcast or want to go back and re-listen to some of the highlights, you can check out top 5 TrainingBeta Podcast episodes based on popularity on the TrainingBeta website.
Top 5 TrainingBeta Podcasts:
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TBP 017 :: Adam Ondra on All Things Training
- Here’s what we talked about:
- How he trained to win both bouldering and route climbing world championships
- How he used to train before he started training with Patxi
- How he manages to go to school full time and climb 5.15c
- The prospect of climbing 5.15d
- His thoughts on diet and body weight
- Here’s what we talked about:
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TBP 021:: Alex Puccio on Training, Bodyweight, and Crowdfunding
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What We Talked About:
- Exactly how she trains on a weekly basis
- Exactly how Justen Sjong is helping her improve her mental game
- Why she doesn’t have enough sponsor money, and what she’s doing about it
- How she lost weight, and whether or not she’s anorexic
- What she thinks about performance enhancing drugs
- Lots more – she’s very honest and open
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TBP 051 :: Sean McColl Tells Us How He Trains
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What We Talked About
- How he trained as a kid
- What his training cycles look like
- Training for bouldering vs route climbing
- Campus board, fingerboard, climbing drills
- Weight training?
- His schedule
- His diet
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TBP 025 :: Steve Maisch on Home Wall Training and Lifting for Climbing
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What We Talked About
- How he went from climbing V10 to V13 using a 6-foot wall in his basement
- What weight training is beneficial for climbers and why
- How to train for bouldering as opposed to route climbing
- Circuit training on a bouldering wall
- The best way to train finger strength
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TBP 048 :: Neil Gresham on Training for 5.11 and 5.12
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What We Talked About
- Case study of 5.10/11 climber trying to break into the next level
- How he helped fix a client’s elbows in a matter of weeks
- How to break into 5.11 or 5.12
- What the ketogenic diet is and how he’s improved on it
- The most important overall exercise for a climber
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