Is your hangboard sitting untouched and unused, collecting dust hanging above your doorway? Does even just thinking about doing a hangboard session make you bored?
This article from eveningsends.com was written by Dan Mirsky about hangboard training, which, he admits, can be boring….
“The problem is, hangboarding is boring at best, injurious at worst. Mostly, climbers let their hangboards sit untouched and unused, like pieces of abstract art hanging above the doorways of their homes.
To address the boredom aspect—well, let’s put it this way: How much do you want to improve your climbing? If you can muster the motivation to be bored for 30 productive minutes a week on your hangboard, you will improve. So be bored! It’s only 30 minutes, crank up the gangsta rap and get after it.”
Dan takes us through the steps of the hangboard workout he does and recommends, Repeaters. He talks about how to do repeaters, and how to tailor the workout to your needs (for instance, training power vs. power endurance on the hangboard if you feel like you’re lacking in one area or your current project demands more of one).
“Hangboarding directly improves strength, but it also indirectly improves power and even endurance, too. I always feel more powerful because holds feel bigger than they actually are, and my endurance goes up because I don’t have to try as hard to hang on. This combination allows me to relax, move fluidly and climb confidently.“
-Dan Mirsky
He also goes over grip position, having good form, how to work hangboarding into your climbing schedule, and how to add weight. It’s a great breakdown of the aspects of training on the hangboard and describes well what you can get out of doing this kind of training….
“You could argue that finger strength determines your climbing level more than anything else. And training on a hangboard is the most productive, effective and efficient way I have found to get stronger fingers.”
Convinced? Hopefully this article will help motivate you past the boredom dread and get you dusting off your hangboard!
CLICK HERE: Catch a Hangboard Buzz
(photo courtesy of eveningsends.com)
Hear more from Dan Mirsky in our podcast interview with him, here.
