Mere Mortals Guide to Beasting the Beastmaker 45º Slopers- UpskillClimbing
(photo courtesy of upskillclimbing.blogspot.com) How's your strength on slopers feeling? Have you tried training slopers on the Beastmaker 2000 wooden hangboard only to be left feeling like a "mere mortal"? Understandable. This article from upskillclimbing.blogspot.com will take you through the stages of training to work up to being able to use [...]
The New Rules of Fitness- OutsideOnline
(photo courtesy of outsideonline.com) "Decades ago, fitness consisted of two workouts: all-out, all the time; and “LSD”—long, slow distance training. Then fitness went high-tech. Personal-metrics devices from companies like Polar, Garmin, Nike, and others became a billion-dollar industry. Nutrition took wild turns, too. Rocky-style raw-egg shakes were replaced by beet [...]
Lunge Matrix as Warm-Up- CoachJayJohnson
Have tight hips from climbing on steep rock or stemming? Are your hamstrings stiff from heel hooking? This video from CoachJayJohnson.com will show you a quick warmup to loosen up your legs before climbing or training. It may suggest this as a warmup for running but it works really well for [...]
Sean McColl Training Video
Sean McColl, professional climber from Canada, recently stood on the podium twice in one weekend at the World Cup in China. He got a silver medal in both the lead climbing and bouldering events. Impressive. In this training video found on his blog (seanmccoll.com), Sean shows us the routine he does when [...]
You Aren’t Actually Training
This article was written by Kris Hampton and reposted from his site powercompanyclimbing.com. Kris Hampton is our friend and author of our 8-week Endurance Training Program (have you checked it out? It's awesome if you're looking to send longer routes!). Here's Kris.... Here, he talks about the difference between [...]
Fourth of July Fruit Salad Recipe
Heading out on a climbing trip for the Fourth of July holiday this weekend? Or heading to a BBQ this evening? Try this delicious, festive, red white and blueberry salad for a simple, healthy holiday weekend side dish or a snack at the crag. Perfect and refreshing for summer! Happy [...]
Paige Claassen’s Top 20 Musical Playlist for Training
We started TrainingBeta hoping to give everyone access to the best training advice and information out there. That includes blog posts, interviews, product and book reviews, etc. For me, that also means recommendations for awesome motivational music. Music can be a huge part of a good training session, so we thought [...]
Tiffany Hensley: How Women Should be Training- EpicTV
Tiffany Hensley, a professional climber living out of her van, shows us in this EpicTV.com video how she trains hard for climbing. She focuses on areas that female climbers tend to ignore.....from front levers to campus board ladders to using crazy movements to get through cruxes. Thanks Tiffany, for showing us [...]
Steve Bechtel’s Book on Strength Training
This post was written by Steve Bechtel, climbing trainer and owner of climbstrong.com. Steve's book on strength training is called Strength: Foundational Training for Rock Climbing, which he describes in full on this post. He explains below why strength training with weights and on the fingerboard is so gosh dern important [...]
EveningSends: Don’t Get Strong. Get Good.
"Rock climbing is equal parts mental, physical, and technical. Yet most climbers only focus on the physical." -Andrew Bisharat With that in mind, a new approach to training when you head to the climbing gym might be a good idea, yeah? "The truth is, for most climbers, especially those of [...]