Training While Injured- Courtney Sanders -La Sportiva
One of the toughest parts about being injured is finding your reasons to stay psyched. It can be hard to feel motivated to train. Injuries are frustrating, make you sad, are limiting, and there's never a good time for them. Obviously. La Sportiva athlete, Courtney Sanders, snapped a tendon in her [...]
Resting, the Strategic Way
"Although often overlooked, rest is quite possibly the most important aspect of any training program. This isn’t to say that you shouldn’t train hard. Rather, it’s absolutely beneficial to train as hard as you possibly can, but only if it’s countered by sufficient amounts of quality recovery time. Your body [...]
Hard Core for Hard Climbers- Core Training that Works! -dpmclimbing
(photo courtesy of dpmclimbing.com) Having a strong core is really beneficial in climbing. We all know that. And not just having strong abs, but all the muscles between the shoulders and the top of the thighs. This article from dpmclimbing.com by Eric Hörst is about the importance of having a super stiff core [...]
The Story Behind JStar’s Send of Biographie/Realization (9A+/5.15A)- EpicTV
A few weeks ago our good friend and pro-climber, Jonathan Siegrist (Jstar), became the eighth person to ever send Biographie/Realization, the world's first 9a+, in Céüse, France. This video from EpicTV.com gives a little insight into the story behind Siegrist's send. It shows a glimpse of his lifestyle as a nomad (including his [...]
Coconut Sweet Potato Cookies- Recipe
This recipe is courtesy of pro-climber and base-jumper Steph Davis's blog highinfatuation.com. Try it out for a new climbing snack- lots of good carbs and fats.... Coconut Sweet Potato Cookies Ingredients: -1.75 cups (350 grams/ 4 small) Sweet potatoes without skin -2 cups of coconut flakes -1/2 cup canned coconut milk [...]
Campus Training with Flannery Shay-Nemirow -dpmclimbing
Campus board training is designed to help you gain explosive power and contact strength in your fingers and arms. Pro climber Flannery Shay-Nemirow knows how to train hard on the campus board. She is probably one of the best women out there at campusing. And she climbs hard outside as [...]
Climbing Heel Hook Exercises- livehealthy
Heel hooking can be a hugely advantageous tool to help take weight off your arms and hands while climbing. Heels hooks can be used passively to help get a rest before making a climbing move, or used actively by pulling with your heel and leg to help you move through a climbing [...]
Overcoming the Fear of Failure- Nicros
(photo courtesy of nicros.com) Mental training is an aspect of climbing that can be easy to overlook and one that is hard to train. Being really strong and having good technique doesn't mean quite as much if you are lacking the mental confidence to approach a new boulder problem or attack a [...]
Train Like a Guide- Climbing.com
Have you ever thought about how exceptionally fit guides need to be to keep up with the demands of their job? It is essential that they train properly to maintain their strength and stay injury free. Connie Sciolino, owner and head coach of the Alpine Training Center in Boulder, CO, works with athletes of [...]
The 4 Tests Every Climber Needs to Pass- Health & Wellness @Planet Granite
(photo courtesy of planetgranite.com) "The shoulder joint is persnickety – it requires balance to stay happy. Specifically, the shoulder requires three things to stay injury free: Balance of strength in the posterior musculature relative to the anterior musculature Balance of flexibility/mobility in the muscles and connective tissue from front to back Sufficient coordination and timing of [...]