Steve Maisch Training: Strength Endurance
"Strength endurance is what gets you up the route. It's the ability to do 5 to 25 just barely sub-maximal moves in a row without resting. Because these moves are just barely sub-maximal they require that one can do hard moves (though not maximally hard moves) and sustain a roughly [...]
Ethan Pringle’s 10 Tips for Sending Your Project
You know how great that feeling is, the one where you finally get to clip the chains of your project that you've worked hard on? Yep, that one. Sending a hard project feels awesome and is usually extremely gratifying because of all the time and effort behind it. A large part [...]
Freebie Strength Training Workout
Looking for a little boost in your climbing strength but not sure of a workout to do? This is a screenshot of one of the strength training workouts in our Bouldering Strength and Power Training Program written by Kris Peters, one of the top climbing trainers in the USA. (The videos for each [...]
Make or Break: Don’t Let Climbing Injuries Dictate Your Success
As Wolfgang Gullich said, “getting strong is easy, getting strong without getting injured is hard”. True. Dave MacLeod recently released his new book, 'Make or Break', about climbing injuries- what to do once you have them, and how things we do in our climbing routine can cause them or prolong [...]
No Excuses: Training From Home
Clearly, winter isn't over. A lot of places seem to be getting hammered with snow. While snowy conditions are awesome for those who love winter sports, they can make getting your climbing training sessions in seem a little daunting. Sometimes getting to the gym after work to train isn't feasible [...]
Foam Rolling for Climbers
Great news! Sarah Groman, a climber and physical therapy student, just released a first-of-its-kind video about foam rolling for climbers on the climbonsister.blogspot.com site. Her video is a full length foam roller workout that targets areas of the body specifically for climbers. In case you've never used a foam roller, Sarah [...]
Sarah Williams: Home Wall Training
Sarah Williams is a climber, blogger, and medical school student. She has to fit her climbing training schedule in with her busy life schedule, which I know most of you can probably relate to. She wrote this awesome article for us about home wall training- who should use a home wall, tips for [...]
New Workouts to Refresh Your Climbing Gym Training
You've heard it before and I'm sure you'll hear it again: one of the main mistakes climbers make in their training is monotony. "Easy and instant access should do wonders for your climbing, but there’s a fatal flaw to many climbers’ training regimen: monotony. It’s easy to fall into a [...]
Mike Doyle: His Send of Necessary Evil
I wanted to post this article because it shows what determination, perseverance, training hard, and never giving up can lead to. Put simply, it's a story of good old fashioned try hard, that worked. Mike Doyle sent Necessary Evil this past week, a historic, very hard-for-the-grade, 5.14c in the Virgin River Gorge, [...]
Shoulder Surgery 3 Month Update
I (Neely) recently wrote a post describing my shoulder surgery (SLAP tear and bone spur, no anchors to repair the labral tear - just tenodesis and bone spur removal under the achromium) and the first 4 weeks of my recovery. It was long and detailed with horrible pictures of me, [...]