Climbing Technique for Shorter Climbers
Last week we posted and article written by Dana Bleiberg for Climb On, Sister! in which she outlined some of the exercises she does to help her cope with being a shorter climber. Well luckily for any shorter climbers out there, Dana wrote a second article that outlines some of the specific [...]
Crux Crush Hangboard Workout
Training on a hangboard is a proven way to systematically increase finger strength in a controlled and safe way. However, spending hours hanging away can be extremely boring and difficult to motivate for. As a result, most hangboards become dusty wall decorations and never deliver the major finger strength gains [...]
Climbing Training: Power Endurance
Getting a little too pumped while you're climbing? Are you falling because of it? If so, improving your power endurance through some climbing training could be just what you need. So, what is power endurance and how can you train for it? “Unlike endurance, where you have a manageable pump, in [...]
Maintaining Performance: Staying Strong to Perform Your Best All Season
We are now well into the summer climbing season and hopefully you are making the most of it. Whether you are training hard to peak in the fall or are getting outside and trying to send now, we all have to deal with maintaining our performance over the course of the [...]
Exercises for Shorter Climbers
Unfortunately, one thing we cannot control is our height. No amount of training will actually make you grow any taller. Luckily, there have been plenty of extremely strong shorter climbers (Lynn Hill...) and being below average height certainly does not mean you will not be able to meet your climbing [...]
Secret Skin-Care Tips From Rock Climbing Pros
Every climber can agree that climbing with tape on your fingertips is a bummer. It can slip, roll, snag the rock weird, and usually prevents you from being able to grab a hold exactly how you want to. Part of learning how to train for climbing should involve injury prevention, [...]
Power Endurance Program Testimonial
Here at Training Beta we love seeing climbing improvement. Its why we train hard ourselves and why we work hard to provide you with as much quality training information as possible. Today we wanted to share with you an email we received from Josh Cales describing the MAJOR gains he has made [...]
How Do Nutrition Needs Differ Between Types of Climbing?
Whether you are a diehard boulder, a big wall climber, or someone who likes to sample all of climbings diverse disciplines proper nutrition is important to your performance and to your overall health. However, your nutritional needs for a day of bouldering and for a day of mountaineering are very [...]
Training for Action Directe Part II
A couple of months ago we posted a video of Luzan Matyas training specifically for an attempt to red point the world famous Action Directe 9a/5.14d. In this video, he has reconstructed the route in three section even crafting replica holds to ensure that his training is as specific as possible. [...]
Gymnastic Rings: Strength Training for Climbing
More and more climbers are learning that hang boarding is the most effective training for finger strength. However, before you head straight to the fingerboard and do nothing but train your fingers for the rest of your training cycle remember that while finger strength is definitely of the upmost importance [...]