Mental Training Made Simple with Neil Gresham
We always hear that climbing is equal parts mental and physical. However, when it comes to training the focus is almost exclusively on the physical aspects like how to improve finger strength or how to make the most endurance gains. This approach of only training the physical attributes and not having [...]
Deadlifting for Climbing with Crux Crush
It seems like incorporating deadlifting and other power lifting into climbing training is a new trend that many top climbers and trainers are praising. While it may seem like your training energy could be better spent just climbing or hitting the campus board, this is not always the case. Deadlifts [...]
Evening Sends – Tips for Redpointing
Redpointing sport routes at or near your limit is a difficult process that requires good tactics and mental fortitude as much as it does strong fingers and high levels of endurance. Many climbers fail to redpoint routes that are actually within their ability not because they aren't strong enough or [...]
Training for Action Directe Part III
Over the past year we have been following Luzan Matyas' quest to train for and climb the world famous route Action Directe 5.14d/9a. So far we have posted videos of Luzan training individual sections of the route on replicas and a video of Luzan's simulation hangboard routine. Well, in the [...]
David Mason Training for King of Limbs
David Mason is an extremely strong British climber who has travelled extensively amassing a highly respectable tick list of high quality, difficult boulder problems all around the world. However, while the volume of hard boulder problems David has climbed may suggest they simply come easily for him, this is not the [...]
Eric Hörst Intro to Fingerboard Training
Time and time again here at Training Beta we talk about how much we love fingerboard training. In our minds, training on a hangboard is one of the most important features of any training plan. "Not surprisingly, then, the fingerboard has become the single most important piece of training equipment [...]
Roof Climbing Tips with Crux Crush
Roof climbing, slab climbing, and every angle in between require their own unique style of movement. As a result, success climbing on different angles requires you to learn a variety of techniques. However, the steeper a climb gets the more upper body strength it requires. Because of this, beginner climbers [...]
Nina Williams Training Video
Nina Williams (V13 boulderer and successful comp climber) is currently following a 5-week custom training plan by Kris Peters, and this is part of her training. If you want a custom training plan that fits your goals and abilities, go to... -->> Get A Custom Training Plan for Your Abilities and Goals [...]
Should Climbers Go Low Carb?
As a nutritionist and a Paleo eater, I've (Neely) thought a lot about people's carb intakes. My own journey has taken me through periods of eating lots of carbs as a vegetarian kid and teenager, then down to very low carbs when I first started Paleo and when I experimented with the [...]
1-Year Shoulder Surgery Update for Neely
As some of you know, I (Neely) had shoulder surgery in November of 2014, so it's been a little over a year since then, and I wanted to update you all on how it's going. First of all, here's a recap of what I had done and how I was [...]