Nina Williams is a well-known V13 boulderer whose training, apparently, people are VERY interested in. I posted this video of her campusing on Facebook recently, and it was viewed over 500,000 times in just a few days.

So, here’s a peek at her training program in case you want to know more about what she’s doing. She’s training with our very own Kris Peters, and during this 5-week phase, he has her doing some finger strength training. Here’s a sample of a day’s work for Nina on her plan.

Here’s One of Nina Williams’ Workouts

– Warm Up: 20 minutes of easy to moderate bouldering.

– Board used: Eva Lopez’s Transgression Board (pictured here), Beastmaker, or others

Round 1: Hangboard Specific Workout

1) 1-Arm Dead Hangs – Pulley System, Half Crimp, 2- Pad Edge

  • Time On: 5 seconds
  • Reps: 3 (alternating sides)
  • Rest: 2-3 minutes
  • Sets: 6-8
  • Weight Off: Make sure 5 seconds is challenging each rep

2) Dead Hangs – Half Crimp – Quarter Pad Edge

  • Time On: 10 seconds
  • Reps: 1
  • Rest: 2-3 minutes
  • Sets: 6-8

3) Dead Hang Repeaters – Pinch

  • Time On: 7 seconds
  • Time Off: 3 seconds
  • Reps: 5
  • Rest: 2-3 minutes
  • Sets: 6-8

Round 2: Power Specific Training

1) Weighted Pull Ups on Rings

  • Reps: 4
  • Rest: 2-3 minutes
  • Sets: 4-6

2) Weighted Negative Pull Ups on Rings (Video)

  • Reps: 4
  • Rest: 2-3 minutes
  • Sets: 4-6

Round 3: Core Specific

1) TRX Planks

  • Time: 90 seconds
  • Rest: 1 minute
  • Sets: 3

2) Ab Roller (Video)

  • Reps: 20
  • Rest: 1-2 minutes
  • Sets: 3

3) TRX Right and Left Side Planks (Video)

  • Time: 1 minute each side
  • Rest: 1 minute after you complete each side
  • Sets: 3

4) Crunches

  • Reps: 50
  • Rest: 30 seconds
  • Sets: 4

Now, I’m not saying you should do this workout! You may not be strong enough to handle some of what she’s doing, including the weighted hangs and pull ups, but at least you know now what she IS doing.

If you’re interested in having a custom training plan made for you so you can get your butt kicked just like Nina does, check out Kris Peters’ custom training plan options.

TrainingBeta is a site dedicated to training for rock climbing. We provide resources and information about training for routes, bouldering, finger strength, mental training, nutrition for climbers, and everything in between. We offer climbing training programs, a blog, interviews on the TrainingBeta Podcast, personal training for climbing, and nutrition for climbers.


  Click here to subscribe
  bottom-training-banner