Climbing Confidence with Crux Crush
All the finger strength and pulling power in the world won't get you up routes at your limit if you can't climb confidently and are consistently sabotaging your own performance. That being said, building climbing confidence is something that can be worked on and trained just like power endurance or [...]
Campus 301 with Will Anglin
Over the past couple of months, we shared a series of articles about campus training from coach and trainer Will Anglin. Will's goal in this series was to explain the ways campusing can be used as an extremely effective form of power training that, when performed properly, can be done [...]
Vegan or Vegetarian Diets for Climbers
Athletes tweaking their diet to maximize performance is nothing new. However, for whatever reason vegan or vegetarian diets seem to be becoming increasingly more popular amongst climbers. While there is certainly nothing wrong with this, choosing to follow one of these restricted diets comes with certain trade offs that as [...]
Treating Tendonitis/Tendinosis for Climbers
Elbow pain, whether from tendonitis or tendinosis, can be one of the most frustrating and debilitating climbing injuries. Because these conditions can seem like minor problems in the beginning, there is a temptation to simply ignore them and continue climbing. However, tendonitis and tendinosis need to be dealt with like [...]
The Secret to Sam Elias’s Sending Spree
On Monday, I published my podcast interview with Sam Elias. Today I want to tell you how you can train like Sam did in order to go on a sending spree - just like he did. During the Black Diamond Training Bootcamp last year (3 3-week training sessions), he was trained [...]
Limit Bouldering with The Power Company
Bouldering is a staple of almost every successful training program. Simply put, whether you are training for routes or for boulders themselves, bouldering is one of the most effective ways to train power where you are still working on movement mechanics and climbing technique. However, if you are really looking [...]
Lynn Hill on Dynoing
Lynn Hill is a climber who needs no introduction. However, at 5'1" and a half, Lynn has consistently had to come up with creative beta to allow her to move past long reaches that taller climbers can simply span. Today we have an article from Rock and Ice in which [...]
6 Enemies of Concentration
Last week we posted an article by climbing trainer Eric Hörst about ways you can improve your mental game while climbing. In it, Hörst outlined his five strategies for improving your concentration when climbing and in life in general. Well, this week we have another article by Eric Hörst on [...]
Planning a Year’s Climbing
A systematic approach to training that produces periods of peak performance is best way to reach your ultimate potential and climb your hardest routes or boulders. However, when planning out a year's worth of climbing there are a series of pitfalls both physical and mental that can sabotage even the [...]
Chris Sharma Training for Le Blond Project
Opponents of training for climbing have long pointed to Chris Sharma as an example of why systematically training for climbing isn't necessary. Their logic is summed up in statements like: "Sharma doesn't train so just climbing outside must be the best way to improve". While we obviously disagree with this [...]