A systematic approach to training that produces periods of peak performance is best way to reach your ultimate potential and climb your hardest routes or boulders. However, when planning out a year’s worth of climbing there are a series of pitfalls both physical and mental that can sabotage even the most motivated climbers.
To help you plan for the long term rather than simply focusing on the next weekend or the next month, here’s an article from Rock and Ice by Neil Gresham in which he outlines some of the major concerns that should be kept in mind when planning out your climbing year.
“The best approach is to push forward in waves, with periods of hard climbing followed by periods where you ease off the gas. It also pays to switch styles: for example, from sport to trad or from slabs to cracks. Stick with a theme or climbing style for long enough to realize improvements, then change before you stagnate. Take some time off, too, to sustain your motivation. Challenges to expect along the way will include maintaining your strength and productivity, keeping up with supportive conditioning to avoid injury, and avoiding burnout.” – Neil Gresham
Tips for Planning a Year’s Climbing:
Gresham is careful to note that ultimately every individual is different in terms of how much climbing they can handle physically and mentally and as a result does not offer a definitive schedule. However, he does offer some sage advice which can be broken up into two categories:
- Structured approach
- Seasonal training
Structured Approach:
In terms of a structured approach, Gresham touches on topics such as planning out how many days in a row you climb as well as fitting in both recovery sessions and basic strength work like hangboarding. Ultimately, his advice here is to be critical about what you are doing. Make sure you are taking enough rest days so that you don’t burn out, but also don’t get caught up in chasing one project route and neglect your injury prevention work or let you hard won strength gains totally dissipate.
Seasonal Training:
The other part of Gresham’s approach to planning is to consider seasonal training. Depending on where you live, chances are there are times of year that reliably have better conditions and those that are either too hot or too wet. Take these concerns into consideration when planning out your year. It’s pretty much impossible to sustain a high level of intensity year round. So plan ahead and make sure you are strong and fit for the prime seasons and use the stretches of subpar conditions to give your body and mind a well earned break.
Planning Concerns:
Ultimately, Gresham does not lay out a road map to success. However, what he does do is highlight some of the major concerns to keep in mind when you are planning out your year. Click through below to learn more about them and then really be critical about your approach. It can be tempting to focus on the short term, but in the long run a systematic, thought out approach will produce much better results.
Full Article: Planning a Year’s Climbing
(photo courtesy of rockandice.com)
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