FrictionLabs: Getting Started on the Moon Board
Our friends at FrictionLabs recently published an article outlining what the Moon Board is and how to use it properly. With the Moon Board, a standardized bouldering training wall created by legendary British climber Ben Moon, rapidly increasing in popularity and becoming one of the go to training apparatuses out [...]
Evening Sends: Climbing Mobility with Kelly Starrett
With all the talk in the training community about injury prevention, it can seem like overuse injuries are the inevitable outcome of hard climbing and training. However, this attitude is missing the most important part of injury prevention and that's the prevention part. With a little bit of consistent work and a [...]
Route Setting to Prevent Injury with Chris Danielson
When it comes to climbing and especially to training, climbers are spending more and more of their time climbing in indoor gyms. While gyms are the perfect place to hone your skills, there are some important differences between indoor and outdoor climbs. One of the most critical is that unlike [...]
Top 5 TrainingBeta Podcasts
Neely has been putting out TrainingBeta Podcasts now for years and they are full of all kinds of amazing training information from some of the top climbers and trainers out there. She is even up to 78 episodes and counting! The only problem with having 78 episodes is that that's [...]
Transcript Highlight: Margarita Martinez on Training Endurance
Training endurance seems pretty simple. Just climb until you are pumped silly and repeat right? While this approach can definitely work, how can you be sure you are actually reaching your maximum pump level? Did you fall because you truly couldn't hold on anymore or did you fall because you [...]
Dr. Jared Vagy: Using a Luggage Scale to Quantify Strength
If you have ever been injured, you know that one of the most frustrating parts is not knowing if you are gaining strength and progressing in your recovery. The reason for this is that it can be very difficult to quantify strength when it comes to small muscles like those [...]
Mark Anderson – 40 Climbing Lessons
Training guru and author of the Rock Climbers Training Manual Mark Anderson recently turned 40 (happy birthday from TrainingBeta!). To celebrate, Mark wrote a blog post in which he outlined 40 climbing lessons he's learned during his year involved in the sport. "A few years ago Steve Bechtel gave me [...]
Bouldering Program – Free Strength and Power Workout
For bouldering, strength and power are king and one of the best tools for training climbing specific power is the campus board. However, while the campus board is definitely a powerful tool it is often misused. Not only will this reduce the effectiveness of any strength and power workout on [...]
Top 5 Climbing Technique Articles
Climbing is first and foremost a skill sport. No amount of strength or power is going to get you up difficult routes and boulders if you don't know how to move properly and have good climbing technique. However, working on your climbing technique is easier said than done. It's not [...]
From Bouldering to Route Climbing Part 2: Training Details
Matt Pincus here today with the next installment in my series of how I transitioned from exclusively bouldering to route climbing as well. This one is all about the changes I made to my training to address the physical limitations that were holding back my route climbing. I hope you enjoy [...]