Natasha Barnes – Hamstring Injuries in Climbers
When we think of climbing injuries, most of us jump right to finger, elbow, and shoulder injuries. While injuries to these areas are definitely common, they are all upper body injuries. Last time I checked, we also use our lower body quite a bit when we climb. Lower extremity injuries [...]
Training4Climbing: Boulder Campusing
If you've been around climbing training, then you are probably familiar with campus training on a campus board. It is a highly effective form of power training that when done properly can produce some serious results. While using the campus board to train in this way is definitely valuable, another [...]
Lattice Training: Height in Climbing
"It's easy for you because you're tall." Spend time at any crag, bouldering area, or gym and you've probably heard this said. While it's true that sometimes being tall can help, there are also times where it seems like being shorter is actually more beneficial. Although none of us can [...]
Climbing Meta – Foam Rolling for Climbers
Hard climbing and training put a ton of strain on our bodies. It's why, even though we may not want to take them, we all need rest days. The thing with rest days is that we don't just have to sit back and let them happen. Through things like foam [...]
Transcript Highlight: Lee Sheftel on Motivation
If you've spent any time climbing in Rifle Mountain Park, then you've seen Lee Sheftel. Despite recently turning 71, Lee is always in the canyon climbing pitches and working on his projects with just as much motivation as the 20 year old climbing next to him. Lee recently sat down [...]
EpicTV – Adam Ondra Endurance Training
We've all heard of 4x4's. However, we bet you've never seen them done like Adam Ondra does them in his latest Epic TV training video. In this latest installment of the EpicTV series showcasing Adam's training, we get to see Adam digging deep during an endurance training session. Additionally, as with all [...]
The Project Magazine: David Mason on Training, Travel, and Mind Games
We've heard from British boulderer and coach David Mason before on TrainingBeta. He's been on the TrainingBeta Podcast and has written an article detailing his training. Since then, it seems not much has changed for David and that's a good thing. He's still training hard, getting stronger, and making trips [...]
Strength Training Guide: Why Train Strength?
Pick whatever sport you'd like. Football, basketball, cycling, gymnastics, take your pick. Athletes in all of these sports don't just train by practicing their sport. Instead, high level athletes in these disciplines all perform underlying strength training as a means of keeping their bodies healthy, strong, and ready to perform [...]
Mark Anderson – Extending a Performance Peak
Whether you are training for the fall or out there trying to send during the summer season, it's important to remember that we can't stay in a performance peak year round. The reality is that as we move out of the gym and focus on giving quality burns on our [...]
Climbing Nutrition – Is Protein Supplementation Effective?
We all know that we need protein to fuel our climbing and training. However, the real questions are how much protein do we need and is protein supplementation beyond our basic needs going to improve our climbing performance? To help answer these questions, here's an article by Brian Rigby of [...]