Rock and Ice: Crag Snacks
We all know that we need to eat to properly fuel our bodies. Despite this knowledge, many of us still drastically under fuel ourselves on climbing days. Not having enough crag snacks can quickly sabotage performance, lead to much shorter climbing days, and cut into your recovery efforts. Eating enough while [...]
Climb Strong: How Hard Do You Try?
Most of us feel like we try hard in our climbing. But how hard do you try? Are you really giving 100% or are you staying somewhere in your comfort zone? Questioning how hard you try isn't a comfortable thing. However, how hard you try is something that is completely [...]
Integrated Strength Workouts with Butora and Gnarly Nutrition
There's a lot of training information out there. We're fully guilty of adding to it. Having all this information is great, but it can be hard to know how to put it all together into effective workouts and more importantly into effective long-term training programs. However, we feel there are [...]
3 Diet Changes to Improve Your Climbing (and Overall Health)
It's Neely here, and today I'm going to talk to you about how nutrition can affect climbers and how to improve your diet starting right now. If you feel like you need help in this department, I'm taking new clients right now for the first time in 4 months. ---> [...]
Transcript Highlight: Joshua Rucci on Resting
Most of us want to climb all the time. While there's obviously nothing wrong with loving climbing, we can't do it every day. Resting is important. Whether we are on a trip or simply motivated to train, we tend to think of rest days as something we have to get [...]
Climbing Nutrition – Intermittent Fasting
If you've made your way to TrainingBeta, then chances are you're looking to improve your climbing performance. As climbers, we can be pretty maniacal in our pursuit of higher and higher grades. For many of us, manipulating our diet in an effort to either lose weight or improve athletic performance is [...]
Adam Ondra Silence Video and Performance Analysis
This past September, Adam Ondra established the world's first 5.15d/9c when he climbed Silence in Flatanger, Norway. Establishing the hardest route in the world is newsworthy simply because of the difficulty. However, it's even more valuable for us to look at Adam's accomplishment from the perspective of learning about how [...]
Top 5 Fear of Falling Articles
The fear of falling is probably the single thing that holds more climbers back than anything else - more than finger strength and more than poor technique. When people first start climbing, their fear of falling can be overwhelming. This can be when they are above a bolt, a piece [...]
Rock and Ice – Heel Hook Exercises
When used properly, a heel hook is a great technique for using your legs to take some weight off your hands. Solid heel hooks can make even the worst hand holds usable as they can take the majority of your weight. However, for heel hooks to work properly, you can't just [...]
Evening Sends: How Paige Claassen Sent Her Proj With Only 1 Hour Per Day
As I've sure you've seen by now, Paige Claassen recently sent Necessary Evil 5.14c. When Chris Sharma first established Necessary Evil in 1997, it was the hardest route in the country. In the 21 years since the first ascent, Necessary Evil has only seen 16 other ascents and didn't see a [...]