Blog Posts about Injuries
The Truth About Rest Days – Galina Parfenov
Rest days are definitely not our favorite part of climbing here at Training Beta. However, while they can be extremely boring and make you feel like you are not being productive in your climbing and training, getting enough rest is [...]
Shoulder Warm Up with Ann Raber
How do you warm up? Do you simply walk up to the crag and start climbing on easy routes and boulder problems? While this type of warming up will eventually get the job done, it does neglect parts of your [...]
Injury Free Bouldering – 15 Tips with Neil Gresham
Whether its finger tweaks, shoulder pain, or twisted ankles, anyone who has committed any amount of time to bouldering knows that it is a high impact style of climbing that can easily lead to injuries. To help you stay injury [...]
Training Antagonist Strength for Climbing
Training antagonist strength is an important form of climbing injury prevention and should be considered part of every climber's training routine. However, according to The Climbing Doctor Jared Vagy most climbers misunderstand how to strengthen their antagonist muscles and even [...]
Should You Ice a Climbing Injury?
We all know the conventional sports wisdom that says you should get ice on an injury as quickly as possible. However, does this apply to climbing and should you ice a climbing injury? Climbing Magazine recently published an article by Dr. [...]
The Climbing Doctor Goes to China
Dr. Jared Vagy (The Climbing Doctor) shared with us his blog post about his recent trip to China to work as a physical therapist for the Chinese Olympic Track and Field Team. While he was there, Dr. Vagy mostly worked as a [...]
Avoid Overtraining: Only Ondra Should Train Like Ondra
We all want to improve at climbing, get strong, and send more. That's probably why you came to this site in the first place. In an effort to improve, it can be really temping to simply try to train more [...]
Review of Pulley Injury Literature
If you climb for long enough eventually you will probably have to deal with some kind of finger injury. While careful training and preventative care can stave off injury, chances are eventually you are to have some sort of pulley [...]
Secret Skin-Care Tips From Rock Climbing Pros
Every climber can agree that climbing with tape on your fingertips is a bummer. It can slip, roll, snag the rock weird, and usually prevents you from being able to grab a hold exactly how you want to. Part of [...]
Rest Day Shoulder Workout
If I had to guess, I'd say most of us are guilty of trying to ignore nagging injuries. Maybe not even injuries, but those climbing body parts that don't feel always 100%, minor tweaks and pains say, that you hope [...]