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Learn More from Tyler: If you want to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for injuries or strength training, he offers remote consultations to people all over the world. He also teaches online classes on strength training and [...]
In this interview I talk with physical therapist, Dr. Jared Vagy, about how to heal and prevent elbow injuries using his Rock Rehab Pyramid for rock climbers.
I talk with Josh Larson, Head Coach of the US National Climbing Team, about how USA Climbing is helping to prepare athletes for World Cups and the Olympics.
In this interview I talked with Dr. Tyler Nelson about how to heal the most common tendon injuries in climbers using isometric exercises with heavy loads.
Professional climber Sierra Blair-Coyle talks about the intense training she does for national and world cup comps, as well as her career as a model and how she deals with online harassment and negativity.
As a short climber, sometimes the way I do moves on routes or boulders is a lot different than what a taller person would do. And let's be honest: sometimes what I do is harder than what a normal-sized person [...]
Kyle Lindsay tells us how he went from a 5.12 plateau to sending his first 2 5.13a's by changing up his training. We also talk about the mental barriers to climbing 5.13a and how his diet helped him become stronger.
I talk with Jonathan a bit about how he prepared for la Planta de Shiva and his epically pumped send of it. He also asks me about my contrasting experience of climbing in Spain, wherein I failed to send my own project.
Our TrainingBeta Instagram Manager and savage climber, Shaina Savoy, talks about how she went from 12a to 13a in 6 months and how she tames negative self-talk while climbing.
Climbing coach and guide John Kettle talks about how he improved his technique and strength to break a decade+ plateau from V7 to V11 and 5.11d to 5.13b in a very short time.