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When it comes to improving overall finger strength, hangboards are the gold standard. However, hangboard training works most effectively when training for edge, pocket, and crimp holds. They are, however, not as effective for improving pinch strength. The main reason [...]
In this interview, I talk with Esther Smith, physical therapist, about common hip and knee issues in climbers and how to rehab them.
You can make fingerboarding as complicated or as simple as you like. The good thing is that as long as you are using proper form and consistently progressing the difficulty your fingers will get stronger. To help you fingerboard effectively [...]
Date: May 4th, 2017 About Natasha Barnes Natasha Barnes is a former competitive climber, a competitive power lifter, and a doctor of chiropractic with a specialty in rehabilitation of sports injuries. She [...]
Date: January 6th, 2017 About Esther Smith Esther Smith is a Doctor of Physical Therapy, a Nutritional Therapy Practitioner, and the owner of Grassroots Physical Therapy in Salt Lake City. She [...]
If you follow this blog, then you've definitely noticed that we believe finger strength training on a hangboard is one of the foundations of training for climbing. While we do our best to provide you with information on different effective [...]
If you are looking to improve your route climbing, then building endurance should be one of your top priorities. One of the best ways to do this is through capacity work like ARC training. Doing long duration intervals will help [...]
While we have definitely learned a lot about how to effectively train for climbing in the last few years, most of what climbers base their training programs off of is anecdotal evidence that has not been definitely proven by scientific studies. [...]
It is no secret that having strong fingers is important for climbing difficult routes and boulders. Additionally, research has now shown that for experienced climbers fingerboards are the most effective tool for producing finger strength gains. However, as with any [...]
Here at TrainingBeta, we post a lot of articles about how to improve your finger strength. We have covered numerous different hangboard routines, which hangboards are our favorite, and how to improve finger strength for different grips. However, while following a [...]