Date: April 2nd, 2019
About Shaina Savoy
Shaina Savoy is a 25-year-old climber living in Las Vegas, Nevada. I met Shaina a couple years ago when she started dating my friend, Jonathan Siegrist, and since then I’ve spent a good bit of time with her. In that time, I quickly recognized her finesse on social media (@shainasavoy) and asked her to manage the TrainingBeta Instagram account @trainingbeta.
She quickly helped us grow and engage our audience because she’s, well, engaging. She’s sweet, always up for an adventure, contemplative, fair, and a savage climber herself. People like to know what she’s up to, partly because she’s ascended the ranks as a climber very quickly. We all want to know what her secret is! And that’s why I interviewed her. Having watched her go from sending her first 12a to sending her first 13a six months later, I was impressed to say the least.
In this interview, we talk about how she had the courage to make such big goals for herself, how she managed to pull them off, how she trains, and some of the emotional struggles she’s faced around not feeling good enough in climbing. She’s pretty hard on herself, as so many of us are, and we dive in pretty deep about how she navigates self deprecating thoughts around climbing. This is particularly difficult when you’re constantly comparing yourself to your climbing partner, who happens to be one of the strongest climbers on Earth, so we talk about that too.
We also talk about her diet, which has evolved from vegan to pescatarian for health reasons. She discusses how difficult it was–and still is–for her to start eating fish, but why it’s been worth it.
Shaina Savoy Interview Details
- How she got so dang strong in only 3.5 years
- Her training schedule while she’s at home in Vegas
- How being on the road helped improve her climbing quickly
- How her body has changed since starting climbing and eating fish
- Her process of projecting routes outside
- Finger care tactics for trigger finger
- Tools for checking self-hatred/ego/entitlement in climbing
Shaina Savoy Links
Training Programs for You
Do you want a well-laid-out, easy-to-follow training program that will get you stronger quickly? Here’s what we have to offer on TrainingBeta…
- Personal Training Online: www.trainingbeta.com/matt
- For Boulderers: Bouldering Training Program for boulderers of all abilities
- For Route Climbers: Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities
- Finger Strength : www.trainingbeta.com/fingers
- All of our training programs: Training Programs Page
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Photo by @MikeHopkins of Shaina on Colloidal Impact 12b in Lake Louise, Canada