For many climbers, attempting to learn to dyno or move dynamically can feel difficult and counterintuitive. However, while it may feel unnatural and awkward at first, effectively being able to dyno, use momentum, and not always climb statically are important skills for climbers who are looking to move efficiently and be more well rounded.
To help climbers struggling to learn to dyno, here’s an article by Cate of Crux Crush that breaks down the complex movement of dyno-ing into more easily understood steps and then outlines three drills that will help you practice and improve at whatever jumps routes or boulders throw at you.
“After years of refusing to try any problem or route that involved a dyno, I finally admitted I had a dyno problem and needed serious help to break the process apart and then build it all back up together. Luckily climbing coach and pro, Mike Foley, was open to giving me (and by extension you!) a few pointers on the dyno process. After just three drills, I felt more confident in attempting a dyno and even managed to stick a few dynos since!” – Cate of Crux Crush
Dyno Training Drills:
The three drills outlined in the article each target a specific step of dynamic movement and let you focus on improving one part of the movement in isolation before trying to combine it into a more complex single jump. The drills described:
- On wall rock ups
- Box Jumps
- Dyno timing practice
Essentially, the first drill focuses on the “rocking up” portion of the movement and the second drill works on the “exploding” off your feet portion. The third drill combines the “rocking up” and “exploding” from the first two drills and adds in timing these movements properly as well as catching the actually finish hold.
While initially practicing only half of a movement may seem silly, doing so lets you focus on learning how to do that specific part of the move properly without getting overwhelmed by focusing on too many things at once.
If you almost always climb statically and avoid dynos at all costs, this article is a perfect place to stop and start embracing dynamic movement. Check out the full article where these three drills are described in greater detail and demonstrated in videos by click through below.
Full Article: Crux Crush – Learn to Dyno
(photo courtesy of cruxcrush.com)
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