Climbing Magazine – Translating Training to Outdoor Performance

Training is hard work.  If you are going to put in the blood, sweat, and tears, you want to make sure it translates to improved climbing performance outside.  After all, achieving a personal best on the hangboard is cool, but sending your project in a whole lot cooler!

To help you ensure you are making the most of your hard won training gains, here’s an article from Climbing Magazine that features advice from climbing coaches Justen Sjong and Juan Usubillaga about translating training to outdoor performance.

“You’ve all seen “that guy”—that gym-honed freak who blasts through campus ladders and sends the gym’s hardest problems only to turn into a puddle of flail on the rock. For some reason, he’s unable to apply his fierce fling-the-grips-at-the-ground style outside. So what’s going on? Two climbing coaches, Justen Sjong and Juan Usubillaga, both 5.14 climbers based in Colorado’s Front Range, offer their take on how we can all train on plastic smarter, and not just harder, to become better climbers both outside and in.” – Matt Samet

Translating Training to Outdoor Performance

Coaches Justen Sjong and Juan Usubillaga are both accomplished climbers in their own right.  They certainly know what it takes not only to get strong in the gym, but to send hard outside.

The tips in this article won’t necessarily make you stronger, but they will help you make the most of your strength.  They cover everything from advice on footwork and pacing to thoughts about overall climbing style.

Do yourself a favor and click through below to read the full article.  This is another example of how we all need to focus on getting better as well as getting stronger!

Full Article: Climbing Magazine – Translating Training to Outdoor Performance

climbing training programs

(photo courtesy of Andrew Burr and

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By | 2017-09-19T14:02:54+00:00 September 19th, 2017|0 Comments

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