When we hear about Adam Ondra establishing Silence (the world’s first 9c/5.15d route), it’s easy to say, “Wow, he sent because of how hard he trained.” Obviously, Adam Ondra trains incredibly hard and no one can climb 5.15 without being strong. However, establishing routes on the cutting edge of the sport requires a lot more than strong fingers.
Today, we have an interview Adam did with Climbing Magazine about how visualization was critical to his success on Silence and how it is a critical part of his training.
“The more you visualize, the more you have it dialed and the easier the route feels. You can try it 20 times in real life then 200 times in your mind, and that can bring the same result as “having it dialed”—as if you’d tried the climb 50 times in real life. You save skin, time, and climbing partners.” – Adam Ondra
Adam Ondra’s Use of Visualization for Silence 9c
In the interview, Adam describes the 3 different types of visualization he does both by himself and with the help of his physiotherapist Klaus Isele. Essentially, Adam does all his visualization practice lying on his back. For the first type, he simply goes over all the moves in his head. In the second drill, he visualizes the moves on his project while acting out the moves with his hands and feet. Then, for the third exercise, he has Klaus either “create” crucial holds or guide his hands and feet so that he is actually practicing the body positioning and movement on the route.
These exercises may seem a bit out there, but clearly they are working for Adam. Plus, as Adam says later in the interview, any edge you can get that doesn’t cost you skin and tries on the wall is worth it! Click through below to read the complete interview.
More From Adam Ondra on Sending Silence 9c
If you like what you see in this interview and want to hear more about what it took for Adam to establish the hardest climb in the world, be sure to check out the interview he did on the TrainingBeta Podcast by clicking the image below!
Full Interview: Climbing Magazine – Adam Ondra and Using Visualization
(photo courtesy of climbing.com)
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