Review: Transgression Hangboard (and Training Plan) by Eva Lopez
This review was written by Kris Hampton and reposted from his site, powercompanyclimbing.com. Kris Hampton is our friend and the author of our 8-Week Endurance Training Program, which you should definitely check out if you're wanting to send long routes! Here's Kris - you've probably seen him at [...]
Mark and Mike Anderson’s Guide to Hangboard Training
This post was kindly written by the prodigious and brainy Anderson brothers, Mark and Mike. They're the authors of the coveted book, The Rock Climber's Training Manual, and their complete bio is below. Enter Mike and Mark “Because your fingers are the link to the rock, finger strength is probably the most important [...]
Justen Sjong: The Art of Breathing While Climbing
This post was kindly written by Dave Sheldon, a frequent contributor to climbing magazines, and my favorite bodyworker in the world. You can see his full bio below. (Photo of Justen above by Celin Serbo) Enter Dave Taking a breath is an essential ingredient to life and something we do [...]
Steve House on Training for The New Alpinism
This post is a Q&A with famous alpinists, Steve House (UphillAthlete.com) and Scott Johnston, on their new book, Training for the New Alpinism, and their own alpine careers. Enter Steve and Scott... What motivated you to write Training for the New Alpinism? Scott: Steve and I had been kicking around [...]
Free Power Endurance Workout
If you realized this weekend that you need to do more training to reach your goals, this climbing training workout should help. The workout below is a screenshot taken directly from our 6-Week Power Endurance Training Program by Kris Peters, the trainer from Team of 2 . If you want more [...]
Strength And Power Resources
This post was written by my husband, Seth, who's generally the behind-the-scenes guy here at TrainingBeta. Enter Seth... I've been spending a lot of time recently doing research for TrainingBeta's upcoming strength and power programs. These programs will focus primarily on a 4-6 week fingerboard cycle and a 4-6 week [...]
EpicTV’s Top 3 Climbing Training Videos of 2013
I just saw this for the first time. Where have I been? Maybe you've already seen this amazingness, but even if you have, it's worth another watch. Here we have EpicTV.com's top 3 climbing training videos of 2013: The notorious Ueli Steck training for his most recent (and infamous) Everest attempt. [...]
Whitney Boland on Fear and Confidence in Climbing
This article was kindly written by one of my role models in climbing, Whitney Boland. She's a petite female who has shown me that it's possible to make reachy, powerful moves, even when you're short. And to do it (seemingly) fearlessly. (Photo of Whitney above in Sicily by Andrew Burr [...]
Crag Food – Banana Bread Recipe for Climbers
Ok, it's not really just for climbers, and you can eat it in other places besides at climbing areas, but this banana bread is staple crag food for Seth and me because it's filling, mildly sweet, and it has a good amount of carbs, protein, and fat all in one package. [...]
How to Rest Between Redpoint Burns
That photo is of Paige Claassen takin' a time out between climbs on our trip to Siurana. How to rest between redpoint burns is such an individual thing. Everyone has their own preference for how long they need between warm-ups and redpoint burns on routes, and between attempts on boulder problems. [...]