The Return of the Masochist: Full Psyche Ahead
This is a repost from Brian Weaver's blog, fullpsycheahead.wordpress.com, about his process of getting back into shape post knee surgery. This article proves what dedication to training hard, eating really well, and getting enough sleep can do for you as an athlete and climber. As Brian tells it: "I've been [...]
How to Strengthen the Rotator Cuff for Climbing
This post was written by Jared Vagy, the Doctor of Physical Therapy and climber of theclimbingdoctor.com. He is also the author of The Ultimate Climber, a fantastic guide on preventing climbing injuries – something we could all use. Enter Dr. Jared Vagy... Most climbers are performing the wrong exercises for their rotator [...]
Ooey Gooey Chocolate Brownies
Oh man. YUM. In honor of Valentine's Day, go check out this recipe for delicious chocolate brownies from RDN Aicacia Young's site, climbhealthy.com (Aicacia is also the author of our Rock Climbing Nutrition eBook). As she puts it: "Brownies are basically the greatest things ever invented. I know it. You know [...]
Review: Send Climbing’s Downgrader KneePad
By now you've probably seen them: the strap-on kneepads made by Send Climbing? Whether you've seen one, used one, want one or are just curious about them, listen up:) This is a review of Send Climbing's Downgrader Kneepad, written by kneebar extraordinaire, Dan Mirsky. He has been climbing in Rifle for [...]
bäm Board Review
Ready for something new and exciting in the world of hangboarding? Ben Spannuth recently released the bäm board hangboard, a first-of-its-kind fully adjustable board. Here, Dan Mirsky and Katy Dannenberg have written a review of the bäm board- how it works, the specs and how it is as a training tool. The bottom [...]
Free Training Q&A Call Replay
Download Directly RSS Feed: http://trainingbeta.libsyn.com/rss If you missed our free training Q&A call with Kris Peters, Seth Lytton, and Neely Quinn, fear not, because here's a recording of the whole call! In the call we answered questions on: How best to schedule your workouts on our Bouldering Strength and Power Program [...]
Nicros: 3 Exercises for Improving Grip Strength!
As climbers, we all want more grip strength. Right? Do you get the feeling that even though you've been doing a lot of climbing, your grip strength doesn't seem to be improving the way you'd like it to? "While gains in grip strength come quickly during your formative days, it’s [...]
ClimbStrong: The Todd Skinner Workout
"Once upon a time, there were no climbing gyms. There were good climbers, among them my friend Todd Skinner, who did a fair amount of hard training off the rock. During the late 1980s, Todd and some friends developed a freestanding "box" of slats with several different sizes of wooden [...]
Train Wreck: 5 Ways to Derail Your Training
This article was written by Kris Hampton and is a repost from his awesome, informative site, powercompanyclimbing.com. Kris is a great climber, friend and author of our 8-Week Endurance Training Program (with spring just around the corner it's a great time to start this program....). Here he writes about 5 ways [...]
TrainingBeta Bio: Katy Dannenberg
This is Neely, and I'd like to introduce you officially to my very good friend-- and more importantly the person who's been posting most of our awesome content on TrainingBeta. That's Katy Dannenberg, who you may have seen crushing routes (and recently bouldering) around the country. We hired her a while [...]