Transitioning from Gym to Crag
Did you spend all winter training hard in the gym preparing for the summer season only to find that you have felt awkward and seemingly unprepared once you made it back outside? Transitioning from gym to crag after a long stint of only climbing on plastic can be difficult and [...]
Maximum Strength Fingerboarding with Steve Maisch
Steve Maisch is a climber, trainer, and economics professor based in Salt Lake City, Utah. In his recent Training Beta Podcast, he talks quite a bit about using fingerboarding/hangboarding as a way to improve max finger strength. Unlike the Anderson Brothers, however, Steve does not perform the common "repeater" exercise [...]
Coconut Cherry Vanilla Popsicles
Is the summertime heat leaving you craving ice cream or some other cold treat? Aicacia Young from Climb Healthy and author of our Rock Climbing Nutrition Guide just posted a recipe for some coconut cherry vanilla popsicles that look like the perfect healthy summer treat. Not only will these popsicles help cool [...]
How to Train for Compression
Are you one of the climbers that struggles with compression and climbing on slopers? Do you let this weakness in your climbing dictate which routes and boulder problems you choose to climb? While compression climbs are often not as straight forward and simple crimp ladders, they are often some of [...]
Jonathan Siegrist Returns to Ceuse
Here at Training Beta we are pretty big Jonathan Siegrist fans. We know first hand how hard J-Star trains and how much passion and dedication he puts into his climbing. La Sportiva just released an awesome new video by Bearcam Media of Jonathan taking down yet another 9a/5.14d route, La Cadre Nouvelle, [...]
Periodized Training for Climbing: Different Types and Pros & Cons
If you are developing a training program you probably heard of the term periodization. However, you may not know that there are different types of periodized training. This article breaks down the three main types of periodization (sequential training, concurrent training, and conjugate training) and describes each type of training's [...]
Rock Climbing Nutrition: Eating Your Way to Better Climbing
What do you eat to fuel up for a climb? How about snacks for the day or for recovery after? Rock and Ice Magazine recently published an article by Robert Portman PH.D about rock climbing nutrition and the role proper nutrition can play in improving climbing performance. In this fairly [...]
Adam Ondra Pinch Strength Training Device
Are you feeling a bit weak on pinches? Check out the new Adam Ondra pinch strength training device he developed in cooperation with the Czech company A Muerte called Adam's Claspers. "Special hanging training plates - you can use them when traveling or as a complement to the standard finger board. It [...]
The Importance of Daniel Woods and The Bubble Wrap Project.
Kris Hampton of Power Company Climbing and author of our 8-Week Endurance Training Program wrote and article about the importance of Daniel Woods and his send of The Bubble Wrap Project. While Daniel Woods sent the Bubble Wrap Project, which is located at CATS in Boulder, CO several years ago, Kris explains how [...]
The Importance of Flexibility for Climbing
Do you have trouble utilizing extremely high feet? How about difficult or powerful heel hooks? Here's an article form Ned Feehally of Beastmaker.co.uk on the importance of flexibility for climbing that may help. In his article, Ned Feehally argues against the claim that strong muscles are inflexible muscles and illustrates how [...]