Gymnastic Rings: Strength Training for Climbing
More and more climbers are learning that hang boarding is the most effective training for finger strength. However, before you head straight to the fingerboard and do nothing but train your fingers for the rest of your training cycle remember that while finger strength is definitely of the upmost importance [...]
5 Tips to Lose Weight for Climbing
Are you looking to lose a couple pounds in the hope that getting a little leaner will help you climb stronger? Aicacia Young of Climbhealthy.com and author of our E-Book Nutrition Guide (which along with our other e-books are 30% off until Friday if you use the code "summer2015) just wrote an [...]
Recovery
This article was written by Kris Hampton and reposted from his site powercompanyclimbing.com. Kris Hampton is our friend and author of our 8-week Endurance Training Program (have you tried it out? It’s great if you’re looking to send longer routes!). Kris talks about recovering while climbing, and gives training exercises to do to work on it. As [...]
Go Medium: Training in the 70% to 80% Work Load Range
When you go to the gym do you spend your entire session trying routes or problems right at your limit? Steve Bechtel of Climb Strong and author of our Strength Training Guide posted an article that describes how with elite athletes in most sports the majority of their training work load is [...]
Time Management: Maximum Sending, Minimum Time
Do you feel like "real life" is cutting into your training time and interfering with your climbing goals? Luckily, with enough discipline and good time management even people with the busiest and most hectic lives can carve out enough time to not only maintain their current climbing level but even [...]
Dave MacLeod Campus Training through Injury
Dave MacLeod recently underwent surgery on his ankle and has steadily been working his way back into climbing. Dave recently posted a write up on his blog about his campus training through injury and how he has managed to make steady gains despite his inability to use his injured foot. "During [...]
Easy-To-Make Pinch Strength Trainer
Here at Training Beta we are pretty big fans of training finger strength and spend plenty of time on hangboards. However, we are always looking for new devices and ways to train. Training Beta reader Morgan May got in touch with us to share his new pinch strength training device. [...]
Free Finger Strength Workout
Finger strength is possibly the most important aspect of training for climbing, whether you're gaining it by climbing or fingerboarding. It all adds up to being able to hold onto smaller holds for longer, which means you can climb harder routes and boulders. Using a fingerboard is definitely the most effective [...]
The “10-4 Rule” – A Guide Line for Projecting
How long do you work on your project? A couple of attempts? Days? Weeks? Seasons? Climbing trainer Eric Hörst posted an article on his site trainingforclimbing.com that addresses the question of how much time you should spend projecting and whether or not obsessing day in day out over a single route is actually [...]
Marijuana and Climbing
Here at Training Beta, we recently conducted a survey about marijuana and climbing. We were specifically interested in the climbing community's thoughts about marijuana's effects on climbing performance and about the presence of marijuana at climbing areas in general. Dave Sheldon compiled our survey results and wrote this article in [...]