Freebie Power Endurance Workout
Can you do all the moves on your project, but are still failing because you can't seem to link them all together? This may be because you need to work more on your power endurance. With that in mind, here is a free power endurance workout taken from our Bouldering [...]
Tips for a Stronger Mental Game
While we all know that a huge part of climbing is mental, working on one's mental game is more difficult and much more abstract than simply doing another cycle of hang boarding in the gym. However, just because it is more difficult does not make it any less important. With [...]
Good Quality Training with Steve Bechtel
For dedicated climbers, it can be tempting to climb and train too much in an effort to improve. However, simply increasing the volume without thinking things through is a quick path to over training, wasted effort, and injury. Steve Bechtel of Climb Strong and author of our Strength Training Guide wrote [...]
Should You Ice a Climbing Injury?
We all know the conventional sports wisdom that says you should get ice on an injury as quickly as possible. However, does this apply to climbing and should you ice a climbing injury? Climbing Magazine recently published an article by Dr. Lisa Erikson (Climbing Injuries Solved) to try and answer this question [...]
The #1 Reason Why Your Training Doesn’t Work
Here at Training Beta we are obviously big fans of training. Kris Hampton of Power Company Climbing and author of our 8-Week Endurance Training Program is also no stranger to hard core training and putting in the necessary hours away from the crag. However, Kris recently posted an article talking about possible [...]
The Climbing Doctor Goes to China
Dr. Jared Vagy (The Climbing Doctor) shared with us his blog post about his recent trip to China to work as a physical therapist for the Chinese Olympic Track and Field Team. While he was there, Dr. Vagy mostly worked as a PT for some of China's best track and field athletes [...]
Avoid Overtraining: Only Ondra Should Train Like Ondra
We all want to improve at climbing, get strong, and send more. That's probably why you came to this site in the first place. In an effort to improve, it can be really temping to simply try to train more and train harder. However, this approach of increasing both the [...]
Freebie Core Workout: Bouldering Strength and Power Training
Have you ever been out climbing and had that thought, "If my core was stronger, I bet these moves would feel easier"? We've had those thoughts too. So let us help.... This is a screenshot of one of the core workouts in our Bouldering Strength and Power Training Program written by Kris [...]
Dave MacLeod and The Fear of Falling
Are you the kind of climber that starts feeling anxious as soon as you climb above a piece of gear no matter how good it is? What about a bolt? If you are, chances are this fear of falling is the single thing holding your climbing back the most. Dave [...]
Training vs Practice with Steve Bechtel Part 2
Several weeks ago we posted an article by climbing trainer and author of our Strength Training Guide Steve Bechtel from his website Climb Strong in which he outlined the difference between training and practice. In this first article, he discussed how learning a new skill requires us to push ourselves out of our [...]