Maximum Strength Training with Eric Hörst
No matter what type of rock climbing you are interested in, eventually you are going to run into a hold that is too small for you to use. For this reason, training finger strength is the single most important feature of any effective training program. With this in mind, climbing [...]
Choosing a Protein Powder
Do you drink a protein shake right after training? How about right before bed? While this is a common practice for many athletes and may help you recover faster and make greater gains from your training, it is important to keep in mind that not all protein powders are the [...]
Neely’s New Paleo Cookbook and Guide
I recently wrote a Paleo cookbook that includes over 60 Paleo comfort food recipes and a complete guide to Paleo, and I wanted you to know about it. This is a brief overview of the cookbook, but if you want all the details, you can check it out on my [...]
Plateauing on Your Climbing Project? Try This! Part 3
We've been posting a series of articles by Alli Rainey on what to do it you are plateauing on you climbing project. In the first two, Alli covered the benefits of taking a break and the off-route tactical changes that can help stack the deck in your favor. In part [...]
Improve Your Hip Mobility And Core Strength
Do you struggle on with big moves? How about with high steps and keeping your feet on during really steep climbing? Chances are the reason your struggling with these moves is not because of a lack of pull or finger strength. Instead its an issue with your hip mobility and core [...]
Nutrition Tip for Breaking Plateaus: Eat More!
Most climbers worry about their weight. Whether they are trying to loose weight or simply maintain a certain weight, concerns about staying light often dictate how much and what climbers eat. While one's strength to weight ratio is definitely important, giving your body enough fuel to perform for and recover [...]
Do it Anyway! Working Your Weakness
Everyone knows success feels good in climbing. It can be really tempting to stick to a certain style, hold type, ect. that continues to result in sends. However, if you really want to improve as a climber its important to not avoid the styles you find difficult and instead attack [...]
Plateauing on Your Climbing Project? Try This! Part 2
Earlier this month we posted an article by Alli Rainey about what to do if you are plateauing on your climbing project. In this first article, Alli suggested that when confronted with diminishing returns on a project the first thing we should all do is take a break and climb [...]
Strength or Power? Improving Your Climbing with Plyometrics
Sometimes climbing training can do a great job of building your strength, but may leave out the power portion. They aren't quite the same thing (power=strength x speed), and training for power is a pretty important part of climbing training! Plyometrics can be a good way to build in some power training... [...]
Maintaining Performance: Staying Strong to Perform Your Best All Season
The fall climbing season is either upon us or rapidly approaching. Whether you are training hard to peak in a couple of weeks or are getting outside and trying to send now, we all have to deal with maintaining our performance over the course of the season. Neil Gresham wrote [...]