How to Keep Climbing in the Cold
As climbers, we love seeking out and obsessing over perfect conditions. Usually this means chasing the cold, dry temps that will make even the smallest crimps feel huge. However, with winter beginning to set in, we are often required to go climbing in the cold. And I don't mean "just [...]
Why Do I Suck At Climbing Some Days?!? Part 2: Readiness Monitoring
We've all had projects that get under our skin. If you're anything like me, this can often lead to questioning whether or not today is a good day for me to try and send. I obsess over whether or not I'm feeling fresh enough, if the conditions are good enough, [...]
Adam Macke – Advanced Core Concepts Explained
As climbers, we all know the importance of core strength and have probably spent hours doing sit-ups or leg lifts to try and strengthen our cores. However, while these exercises can help initially, they may not be the most efficient way to increase core strength for climbing. To help you [...]
Training Tips with Will Gadd
Will Gadd is probably the world's most accomplished ice climber so clearly he knows a thing or two about how to train and how to get the most out of his body. However, even as a professional climber, Will's time (like the rest of us) is filled with commitments and [...]
DON’T JUST BOULDER: HOW TO GET STRONGER FOR CLIMBING
Many climbers have the idea that the best way to get stronger and be able to do more powerful moves is to spend some time bouldering. However, while bouldering is a extremely useful tool, Alli Rainey wrote an article arguing that bouldering alone is not the most efficient way to gain sport-specific [...]
How to Cope with Redpoint Nerves
Do you get jittery when your getting ready for a redpoint attempt? We've all been there. Unfortunately, this kind of nervousness while you're preparing to pull onto your project could not pop up at a worse time and can even sabotage your attempt. To help you get over these redpoint jitters [...]
Sport-Specific Flexibility with Alli Rainey
Do you struggle to use really high feet? Do you even have to do a pull-up sometimes just to get your feet into position? If you do its most likely due to a lack of flexibility in your hips. To help, here's an article by Alli Rainey in which she talks [...]
Joe Kinder: “Training Works” – Evening Sends
Have you ever wondered if all the time you spend training is actually going to produce gains? Is it really worth the time away from the cliff? Here is an article by Andrew Bisharat from his website Evening Sends in which he talks to professional climber Joe Kinder about his intense [...]
The Truth About Rest Days – Galina Parfenov
Rest days are definitely not our favorite part of climbing here at Training Beta. However, while they can be extremely boring and make you feel like you are not being productive in your climbing and training, getting enough rest is just as important as how many hangboard sessions you pack [...]
Attack and Defend – Tips for Effective Resting
Here at Training Beta we talk a lot about workouts you can do improve your endurance and avoid getting pumped on routes. While this type of training is definitely critical for success route climbing, it is also important to learn how to climb and rest efficiently. Lots of the time [...]