Andrew Bisharat – Training with Justen Sjong
In most sports, athletes have coaches who determine how they train. This traditional model has a lot of benefits as an effective coach can objectively evaluate an athlete's performance and keep them on a path of continuous improvement. Climbers, on the other hand, are mostly self-coached. Obviously, with the right amount [...]
Staying Power – How to Last All Day at the Crag
Personally, I'd like to be climbing pretty much all day every day. Now, obviously, this isn't possible as we all know everyone needs rest days. However, wouldn't it be nice to be able to maximize the days we can climb so that we can feel strong all day and do [...]
Shauna Coxsey and Alex Megos Training Video
Shauna Coxsey and Alex Megos are two of the world's elite climbers. They have both spent countless hours in the gym training to perfect their craft. However, both athletes are still as hungry as ever to continue training hard in an effort to improve. Here's a video of Shauna and [...]
Alex Johnson – Systems Training
Alex Johnson is no stranger to hard climbing. However, just like the rest of us she has to work hard and train hard. This year she is working towards her goals of sending The Swarm V14 in Bishop and a 5.14. One of the staples of her training is workouts [...]
Improving Footwork with Dave Sheldon
If you watch a beginner climber in the gym, the first thing you'll notice is they are neglecting their feet and only using their arms. To help them out, the first thing you would tell them is "Use your feet." While most climbers learn to use their feet more efficiently [...]
Movement Practice with Steve Bechtel
When you sent your hardest route or boulder problem did it feel easy? I don't mean that the entire process and session after session of attempts felt easy, just the final send. What happened to make something that at first felt so hard feel so easy? Did all your working [...]
Evening Sends – 5 Recovery Tools Every Climber Should Have
As climbers we spend a lot of time talking about and really obsessing over everything that could possibly give us an edge. However, while we are really concerned with details like how many sets we should be doing on the campus board, we often ignore the nagging injuries, general discomfort, [...]
Alli Rainey – Breathing
When you top out a boulder problem or exit the crux section of a sport route do you find you're breathing heavy or have been holding your breath? If this is you, here's an article by Alli Rainey about the importance of breathing and how spending sometime focusing on your [...]
Climbing Nutrition – Tendons
As climbers, finger strength and the health of our tendons is of the upmost importance. Having strong, healthy fingers will not only allow you to pull effectively on small holds, but will also allow you to keep climbing injury free. Finger injuries are an unfortunate reality in climbing and something [...]
Training While Injured – Neil Gresham
Injuries are an unfortunate reality in climbing. Chances are if you climb for long enough eventually you will experience some sort of injury that may sideline you temporarily. It is important to remember, however, that not all injuries mean you need to stop training and climbing completely. To help you [...]