Master Dynos with Sean McColl
If you are not a naturally dynamic climber, dynos and jumps can seem almost impossible and make you feel foolish. However, for harder routes and boulder problems dynos are often an important tool. This is especially true for shorter climbers who may have to jump past sections of rock that [...]
Fingerboard and Campus Board for Beginners
Recently we received a question from a beginner climber who was interested in using our bouldering program. However, he was concerned that the program's fingerboard and campus board workouts would put him at risk of injury since he is newer to climbing. Here's Diego's question via email: Hi, I´ve been [...]
Campus Training with Will Anglin
If you are looking to increase your power, one of the best options is campus training. Using a campus board allows you to train power in a way that is both quantifiable and relatively sport specific to climbing. However, using a campus board can also be very dangerous and if done [...]
The Hierarchy of Training with Steve Bechtel
If you are not a full time dirtbag or a professional climber, then chances are you have constraints on your time that can at times prevent you from climbing or training as much as you would like. While these "real life" concerns can be a drag, they don't mean you [...]
Endurance Training Tips for Winter
Depending on where you live winter may mean prime sending conditions or a complete shut down of outdoor climbing options. Either way, chances are there is at least part of the year where your local outdoor climbing options are out of season. While it can definitely be a drag waiting [...]
Mental Discipline and Training – The New Process
Are you on a training program with a schedule? How strict is it? Does it allow you to re-order days to account for better conditions outdoors? How about taking extra time off if you feel tired or run down? While everyone is different and may require more time off to [...]
Adam Ondra Working Move 9B/+
Here's an old video of Adam Ondra working what became his route Move 9B/+ in Flatanger, Norway. While watching Adam climb this amount of insanely difficult overhanging granite is impressive enough in it's own right, that's not the only reason we are posting it. If you listen closely to Adam describing [...]
Alli Rainey on Being Disciplined
Being a climbing training website, all of us here at Training Beta obviously love taking our training seriously. Personally, one of my favorite feelings in climbing is completing a training cycle where I truly know I have been disciplined and executed exactly what I set out to accomplish. However, while [...]
6 Tips to Beat Fatigue
Do you struggle to make it through your day without feeling tired and run down? While fatigue like this may be common, it doesn't make it any easier to deal with and there is no quicker way to sabotage your climbing training than heading into a session in a fatigued [...]
Eric Hörst – Uneven-Grip Pull-ups
Are you looking to improve your lock off strength? How about being able to do a one-arm pull-up? If so, then one exercise you should incorporate into your training is uneven-grip pull-ups. Here is an article by climbing trainer Eric Hörst of Training for Climbing about why uneven-grip pull-ups are effective [...]