Campus Training 201 with Will Anglin
In his Campus Training 101 Article, climbing trainer and coach Will Anglin outlines the basic principles behind how campus training works, lays out a check list for campus board readiness, and describes some basic workouts to get you started. If you have not read this first article and/or are new [...]
Teal Dreher on Training with Kris Peters
If you are not happy with the way your climbing performance is going, then the best thing you can do is change the way you prepare and train. Here's an article by Teal Dreher about how she used the custom training programs offered by Kris Peters here at Training Beta [...]
Skill Acquisition and Technique
Lately, we talked about how if you are looking to maximize your potential climbing it is important to train hard to get stronger, but that it is also important to work on improving your technique so that you get better at climbing not just stronger. To help you focus on [...]
Jonathan Siegrist – Start with the Mind
As climbers we talk a lot about what sort of exercises will make us stronger and able to send our dream projects. However, while we obsess over what sort of hangboard protocol will produce the biggest gains, we are neglecting a major component necessary for effective training: the mind. Here's [...]
Quadrupedal Movement and Its Benefits for Climbing
While it may not make your fingers or biceps stronger, we all know that a good thorough warmup is extremely important for climbing. Making sure you body is completely warmed up allows you to effectively try your hardest and is one of the best forms of injury prevention. However, your [...]
Winter Training Strategies with Alli Rainey
If you aren't lucky enough to live in an area with in-season winter climbing, then the winter months are the perfect time to buckle down and do some serious training. However, if you want to ensure your hard work produces the best possible gains, then it is important to consider [...]
Arno Ilgner: Set Thought Aside to Improve Performance
When it comes to mental training for climbing, Arno Ilgner is one of the climbers who best understands how to impliment effective mental training and how important having a strong mind can be for performance. While we strongly suggest any climber struggling with the mental side of the sport read [...]
Power Training and the Aging Climber: Injury, Adaptation and Strategy
We have posted before about the effects age can have on training for climbing and in doing so we have noted that unfortunately there does come a point at which making gains, especially in power and strength, becomes more difficult for the aging climber. However, we have also pointed out [...]
A Workout from Nina Williams’ Training Program
Nina Williams is a well-known V13 boulderer whose training, apparently, people are VERY interested in. I posted this video of her campusing on Facebook recently, and it was viewed over 500,000 times in just a few days. So, here's a peek at her training program in case you want to know [...]
Power Training Video with Louis Parkinson
If you are looking to climb hard boulder problems then at a certain point you are going to have to incorporate some power training into your routine. Most climbers accomplish this by training on a campus board. However, to give you a slightly different perspective as well as some serious [...]