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TrainingBeta Blog2021-07-05T15:28:11-06:00

To Pull or Hang

This article was written by Dr. Tyler Nelson, a sports scientist and climber who owns Camp 4 Human Performance, a chiropractic sports medicine clinic and strength and conditioning business in Salt Lake City. Work with Dr. Tyler Nelson If you’d like to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for [...]

3 Technique Habits That Undermine Your Performance – Part Three

Today, we have the third installment of an article series about technique written by UK based climber, coach, and author John Kettle. John was on the TrainingBeta Podcast where he talked about how improving his movement skills helped him break a decade-long plateau and improved his climbing from the V7 and [...]

3 Technique Habits that Undermine Your Performance – Part Two

Today, we have the second installment of an article series about technique written by UK based climber, coach, and author John Kettle. John was on the TrainingBeta Podcast where he talked about how improving his movement skills helped him break a decade-long plateau and improved his climbing from the V7 and [...]

3 Technique Habits that Undermine Your Performance – Part One

We all love doing weighted pull-ups, hangboarding, and various strength training exercises, but how often are you considering your technique? Today, we have the first installment of an article series written by UK based climber, coach, and author John Kettle. John was on the TrainingBeta Podcast where he talked about how [...]

Hip Mobility for Rock Climbers to Improve High Stepping & Frogging

Do you practice yoga regularly, or are you interested in adding a little yoga alongside your climbing routine but not sure where to start? Today we have a guest blog post written by yoga teacher and rock climber living in the South of England, Ieva Luna. In the article, Ieva differentiates between [...]

Alex Stiger: 3 Ways to Develop Your Strongest Core

Announcement! Alex Stiger is teaching a live TRX Workshop for Climbers on Tuesday, December 7th at 6-7:30pm Mountain Time for just $25. In it, you'll learn all about how to use the TRX properly and how to use it to get stronger for climbing. If you sign up for the [...]

Transcript Highlight Episode 140: Mercedes Pollmeier on Generating Tension

For those of you who would rather read than listen, today we have an excerpt from the transcript of the TrainingBeta Podcast Episode 140: Mercedes Pollmeier on Mobility and Technique Drills. You can find the entire transcript and audio on the episode page. In the interview, Neely talks to Mercedes [...]

My Experience Training with a Personal Climbing Coach

The following article was written by Shaina Savoy,  a climber and nutrition student living in Las Vegas, Nevada. Training. Have you heard of it? The year 2019 was a fruitful climbing year for me. I sent two of my hardest routes: A reputably hard 5.13b at the Wailing Wall called [...]

Dr. Tyler Nelson: High Volume Power Training for Climbers

This article was written by Dr. Tyler Nelson, a sports scientist and climber who owns Camp 4 Human Performance, a chiropractic sports medicine clinic and strength and conditioning business in Salt Lake City. Work with Dr. Tyler Nelson If you'd like to work with Dr. Tyler Nelson on an individual basis for [...]

Nate Pierce: A Climber’s Pursuit of a Positive Relationship with Food

ANNOUNCEMENT! I recently created a program all about Nutrition for Climbers. It's a month-long program led by me, Neely Quinn, ICNT to help you gain energy, lean out in a healthy way, fuel and recover properly from exercise, and have a better relationship with food. Sign-ups end this Thursday, [...]

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