How Painful Should My Climbing Shoes Be?
Sometimes I look down at my oddly colored, punk-rock, ballet-looking shoes and wonder what non-climbers must think of us weirdos. But, despite being really weird looking, climbing shoes are quite possibly the most performance-enhancing pieces of equipment we use. For some reason, it's a widely held belief that our shoes should be [...]
Making Exercises More Climbing Specific
Here at TrainingBeta, we've posted a lot of articles about how incorporating some time in the weight room into your training program can produce some serious gains. However, while we'll stand by this statement, not all weight training is effective at getting you stronger for climbing. The reason for this [...]
The Science of Warming Up
As climbers, we tend to focus on the parts of our sessions where we get to try our hardest because they are the most fun. While it is definitely good to enjoy these parts of climbing, it is extremely important to not neglect the less exciting parts like warming up [...]
Self Myofascial Release with Natasha Barnes
If you look at professional athletes in main stream sports, most are consistently receiving body work to help them recover from their training and get ready for their next game. As climbers, we put a lot of wear and tear on our bodies and being able to consistently receive massages [...]
Effective Rotator Cuff Exercises
As climbers, we put a lot of strain on our shoulders and as a result are often plagued by shoulder injuries. However, while not all shoulder injuries are completely preventable, with the proper stretching and strengthening exercises, we can greatly reduce the chance of shoulder injuries by preserving range of [...]
Recovery Meal: Pineapple Fried Rice
Eating a good healthy recovery meal immediately to shortly after climbing and training is extremely important for our bodies. Doing so gives us the fuel necessary to rebuild our damaged muscles, get stronger, and recover for our next climbing/training session. Unfortunately, knowing something is good for us is a lot [...]
Will Anglin – SKIN!
No matter how much you train or how strong you are, an unfortunate reality of rock climbing is that your skin will often wear out before your muscles. While there is really nothing that can be done to prevent this, there are some skin care strategies and products, that if [...]
Evolv Shaman Climbing Shoe Review
We've talked before on TrainingBeta about just how important it is to find the right climbing shoe for yourself. While it's important for this shoe need to be well built and appropriate for whatever type of climbing you are doing, it is even more important that this shoe fits your foot [...]
Crux Crush – Learn to Dyno
For many climbers, attempting to learn to dyno or move dynamically can feel difficult and counterintuitive. However, while it may feel unnatural and awkward at first, effectively being able to dyno, use momentum, and not always climb statically are important skills for climbers who are looking to move efficiently and [...]
The Sports Nutrition Pyramid
With all the information out there about sports nutrition and different diets that will supposedly increase athletic performance, it can be overwhelming to know exactly what's important to focus on when designing your own optimal climbing diet. However, while performance oriented nutrition is a rather complicated topic and the diet [...]