Gnarly Nutrition: Why Climbers Should be Using BCAAs
Take a look at the general fitness world. The athletes participating in these activities (whether they are crossfit, weightlifting, or endurance sports) all use dietary supplements to help increase their performance and speed up their recovery process. Climbers, on the other hand, don't seem to be nearly as interested in [...]
Transitioning from Bouldering to Sport Climbing: 5.9 to 5.14
It's Neely here, and today I have the distinct privilege of introducing TrainingBeta's content manager, Matt Pincus, as our featured author of this article. Matt is a psyched and accomplished climber, and he's put a lot of time and thought into his training. In the coming months, you'll be reading more [...]
Rock and Ice – Margo Hayes on Sending La Rambla 5.15a
On February 26th, Margo Hayes successfully reappointed the route La Rambla in Siurana, Spain. This ascent was historic in that it marked the first ascent by a woman of a confirmed 5.15a/9a+ route. While TrainingBeta is not usually a climbing news website, it wasn't that long ago that 5.15a was as [...]
Splitter Choss: Training With a Finger Injury
If you climb long enough, you're going to at least tweak a finger. For most climbers, when we injure a finger the immediate reaction is to think we need to take some time off climbing to let things heal. If the injury is very severe, this may be required. However, [...]
Maxi-Pull: How to Build Your Own
If you listened to the TrainingBeta Podcast with Margarita Martinez, she talked about her favorite training tool: the Maxi-Pull. Essentially, the Maxi-Pull is a sloper hangboard that, because it is comfortable and relatively friendly in terms of your skin, can be used as a highly effective endurance training tool. Margarita [...]
Climbing Meta – Training Tracker
One of the most important parts of training is effectively tracking your progress. Doing so ensures that you are able to progressively increase the difficulty of your training as you improve. Progressively increasing the intensity of your training guarantees you are giving your body the necessary stimulus to continue producing results. [...]
Evening Sends: Shauna Coxsey and Leah Crane
On a fundamental level climbing is a selfish sport. This is why it was extremely refreshing to read the newest Evening Sends article by Andrew Bisharat highlighting the training partnership between Shauna Coxsey and Leah Crane. Shauna and Leah are British climbers, world cup competitors, training partners, and best friends. Bisharat's [...]
FrictionLabs Features Dan Mirsky: Fundamentals of Training for Climbing
Here's an article from the FrictionLabs blog by climber, coach, and friend of TrainingBeta Dan Mirsky, in which he outlines the areas he feels any successful climbing training program should center upon. As climbers, we are always looking for an edge to help us increase our performance and send our dream climbs. [...]
Mountain Project: The 7 Best Recovery Tools for Climbers
With all of the increased emphasis on training for climbing, it's easy to forget that training isn't when we get stronger. We actually get stronger when we recover from the abuse of training and climbing. As a result, climbers looking to maximize the gains they can make through hard training [...]
ClimbingNutrition.com: Supplements for Climbing
As athletes looking to maximize our performance and the effectiveness of our training, the use of dietary supplements that are actually beneficial is something we should definitely be interested in. The real crux, though, is determining which supplements will be beneficial for us as climbers and which are simply a [...]