The Climbing Doctor: Thoracic Mobility for Climbers
Mobility is the new buzzword in injury prevention and rehab. While mobility work certainly isn't new, climbers are starting to realize that actively working on and improving our mobility is essential for pain free climbing. You can work on mobility for any part of the body. However, one of the [...]
Transcript Highlight: Mathilde Becerra on Double Sessions
With all the information on training and all the exercises you"should be doing," it can be hard to know how to fit everything in without turning your sessions into 5 hour marathons that leave you wrecked for a week. Additionally, during really long sessions you can only feel fresh and [...]
Esther Smith: New Grassroots Self Treatment Videos
If you follow the TrainingBeta Podcast, then you are no doubt familiar with physical therapist Esther Smith. She is an incredibility talented physical therapist who works primarily with climbers and is a 5.13 climber herself. Obviously, for climbers, with our unique set of injuries and desire to keep climbing no [...]
Rock Climbing Nutrition: Rest Day Guidelines
Hopefully you got outside and climbed all weekend. It being Monday, that means you are probably due for a rest day. While we all want to climb everyday, rest days are critical important. Hard training and climbing breaks our bodies down, but it''s actually through rest and recovery that we get [...]
Neil Gresham: Systems Wall and Symmetrical Training
If you are looking for a way to diversify your strength and power training, systems wall and symmetrical training are a great option. The benefit of these training techniques is that unlike hangboarding and campus boarding they involve actual climbing movement while still being more structured and systematic than a standard [...]
Eric Hörst: Managing the Fear of Falling
When you first start climbing, the fear of falling can be overwhelming. For many climbers, it is likely one of the main factors holding back your climbing performance. However, being scared of falling is perfectly normal and something most climbers go through. The key is learning how to actively whittle away [...]
Route Training – Free Endurance Workout
When it comes to trying sport climbs, having good endurance is key. Without it, the moves climbing bolt to bolt may feel easy, but you'll quickly find yourself swinging from the end of the rope when you try to link sections together. As a result, a big part of our Route [...]
David Mason – Fingerboard Routine
You can make fingerboarding as complicated or as simple as you like. The good thing is that as long as you are using proper form and consistently progressing the difficulty your fingers will get stronger. To help you fingerboard effectively and keep things as simple as possible, here's a video [...]
Transcript Highlight: Danny Robertson on Projecting Tactics
We all have dream projects. You know the routes and boulders that that keep you awake at night. It turns out, if you never try these climbs you'll never do them. However, getting on them and training to be strong enough to send them is only half the battle. When [...]
Natasha Barnes – Ankle Sprains
So, you're on a bouldering trip. You're trying to send your project and you jump for the last hold only to miss and come crashing into the pads. Only this time instead of shouting in frustration and then resting up for another go your ankle rolls and you're immediately in lots [...]